So you just keep doing autotune runs with the last autotuned map you saved and continue until there is very little change in the VE delta? I just want to make sure I get step one right before reading more on step two.

 

Crazy you are correct, it is easy to make this more complicated than it is when being new to street tuning. Don't try to work or look at everything you can adjust or will end up adjusting. Don't try to fix everything in one shot.
Autotune, save, do again and again. Do this until your VE tables show only small changes like under 5% most say, I prefer under 3%....

After that then you can work on decel pop, idle issues if you have any, cold start etc, but VE tables must be done first!!!!!! Get them right and the rest of the adjustments are pretty easy if you had a good base map to start with.
I personally have 13 autotunes plus 15 logging runs so far and am getting pretty close to what I want. You won't need that many I just like to try alot of different things after I get off work to see what the affects are seat of the pants.

Main point: autotune till the VE are the best you can get them hitting every cell possible several times till very little change. Then go after the annoyances.

 

I should stay out of this one having never used or seen a pc3 or its maps.... but If your autotuning basic to a base map you got with the PV then overlaying the PC3 map wich will replace your new VE tables then yes to me autotuning would start from scratch again.

My opinion would be autotune with the current base map till the VE are correct then if its possible load the PC3 map as a compare file and do copy n paste of just guessing timing tables or stoich table to set your open/closed loop areas as you prefer. The autotune in PV will get your VE tables damn close even in basic.

 

even tho i have some fairly significant swings (7 to ten percent from negative to positive, its a back and forth thing) i still think i am getting close to having my ve's sorted out.

there are several thing that make me think this.

1 doing runs in cold temps vs warm temps (i ride in everything, anytime) am i on crack to think air density due to air temp has an effect on the ve/air flow ? ...sure does seem like it to me (but i am willing to be schooled on this)

2 i can feel a definite improvement seat of the pants....even the guys i ride with on a regular basis think my bike is "quicker now" (actually getting more of a smile factor from this bike:-)

3 looking at the logs and watching for knock events. i quickly learned that more accurate air flow equaled less knock events ( i can also see a big difference running 91 vs 94 gas in regards to knock... i'll deal with that later)

given the points i just mentioned i must say that i would be (somewhat) surprised if i can truly reach a point of "less than 3-5% change" i will still keep trying and if i dont reach that bench mark (fairly easy to do if i do consistent runs) then i am starting to think that....

A i will just have to be happy with what i have and choose the results that feel best.

OR

B perhaps i need to take a real good look at o2 placement and depth.
i can and will grind down my bungs to get the sensors at a more effective depth if i need to, or even move them to the 12mm locations (i have 18mm but can and will drill and tap if need be) .
i do not want to weld in new bungs cause i have ceramic coated pipes (inside and out) and i know that will not be fun to deal with.


i am still a new student to all of this and i know it will be some time before i can consider myself anything but a new student. i do have an open mind and eventually i do become well versed in subjects i take an interest in.


on a side note, after just one run with lower idle settings (bike and pv) i can feel an improvement with first gear ride-ability.
to be honest i am not certain if it is related to running 1000 rpm idle vs the 950 idle i have had since i got the pv or a combination of both.... i think it would be educational to change my idle back to 950 just to see :-)

my posts are getting long winded but i would like to thank everyone who has provided us here with there knowledge... this would not be so easy without it.

if it helps.... i have a 2011 blackline with rush 2-1 exhaust, dkcustoms outlaw breather (and my god those pirelli night dragons are great tires)

 

I was thinking something like this myself, as once I flash that PCIII import map I'll be in open loop and unable to get VE tables correct.

I'll be starting with the autotunes on the FM supplied base map tomorrow and see what results that gives me.

 

You can use closed loop with pc3 import maps. When you go into auto tune mode it sets your entire map to run closed loop. Even if that particular map is set to say 12-1 afr when you start a auto tune run it sets it to closed loop. The only time I have found it to not gather data while auto tuning is if you manually turn closed loop off in WinPV. So really you can start with either tune. I would guess that the Fuel Moto tune would have more acurate spark tables though.

 

AH! Very helpful information. I did not know this.

This is going to be fun to tinker with to see and feel what works best!

 

Just make sure you are in "pro" mode in WinPV if you are not already.

 

As a couple of the others mentioned, once you import the map, you should then do some autotune runs to set the VEs just like you would with any other map. Once that is done, the imported map has been match to your bike, you can see how it performs and go from there.

 

I will report out on my progress as I go.

I can see where this will take me... I'll try all the combinations and turn PV tuning into a hobby and then when I've exhausted the AT Basic.. Jamie will be getting a call...

It's a progressive disease they tell me.