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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
I have a quick question on installing auto tune. Been searching for the answer, the instructions are not completly clear. When installing auto tune for the PV-1, if the header (FM 2-1-2) has both bung type connections, can both 12 mm and 18mm be installed or should I remove the 12 mm?
I have a quick question on installing auto tune. Been searching for the answer, the instructions are not completly clear. When installing auto tune for the PV-1, if the header (FM 2-1-2) has both bung type connections, can both 12 mm and 18mm be installed or should I remove the 12 mm?
Thanks..
Use the ones that correspond to the O2 sensors that came stock on your bike. Newer ones are 12mm; older 18mm.
So the answer I get about that is that the 14.6 in this table is a "software switch" which then refers the software to the Closed Loop Bias setting and when that is 720 you are at the riches end of the settings. = approixmately 14.2AFR
I'm a pretty much a noob, with enough info to be dangerous, but this is the explanation I received from both DJ and FM. so YMMV
WoW...very good. i didnt even think of that. You did say they set your clb but i didnt put 2 and 2 together.
No cats on this Texas bike. 1 year old and wanted to fix all the issues.
Really would like to see what a FuelMoto stock map looks like. Maybe I could find the
differences and work from there.
jclarktnkr.... Mine did the same thing at first. the first 2 AT runs i did seemed to take the tune process backwards. From my 3rd tune on it started to realy smooth it out and run good. i ended up doing 5AT runs total. 3 got better than 2. 4and 5 are where i noticed improvement. i am like you. i like the unit but am not a fan of it. i dont really use all the gadgets on it.
If i remember right there is some different functions between the sportster programing and my bike. i have a street glide. i think there are some things you can turn on in my map that the sportster maps dont support. It is not the map it is the functions of design from moco. Like i have an EITMS system and i dont think the sporttys do.
How many AT runs have you done? Are you using narrow band sensors or wide band? if you dont have a cat, what do you have for a head pipe? Aftermarket or stock cat removed? stock a/c?
Hi Boston Chris,
I have done 10 AT's so far, each one is pushed a little farther to fill in as much of the cells as possible. The first 3-4 AT's were easy running with a high of ~20-25% throttle position and ~4000 max rpm's. Most of the VE's went richer ~5-10%.
Every tune after these (6-10) resulted in many cells running leaner than before and a number of them leaner than stock. Every thing over 60% throttle position went leaner than stock.
I have a stock head pipe, stock AC and stock slip-ons. The whole bike is stock and is NOT a California bike.
I am running stock narrow band O2 sensors that show no problems. I can change the CLB to a richer setting i.e.: ~14.4 ARF (786mv) and can tell they follow, engine runs richer in closed loop and shows no surging but I've read that it is not good to push the O2's like this and they are not really very accurate at this level.
Today I ran AT #9 & 10 and did a lot of roll on's to fill the chart as much as possible, hoping more data would help. It only made it worse. It even changed VE's outside the closed loop area (ie: wide open 80 & 100% TP) to a leaner VE setting!(~5%). Ouch.
I was surprised that the PV would change the last two columns (80 & 100% TP) since these columns are not set to 14.6 AFR that AT sets up and needs to acquire data.
I'm thinking of maybe running the Power Commander VE's (rich ~20% from stock) Harley's stock AFR's and Timing to see what happens. At least I would be starting off rich and the ARF's and Timing is safe.
I got out for a little ride today and tried out the 13.9 AFR table. The bike seemed to run really well. My biggest concern is giving the bike to much fuel but it seems to be ok.
I have a quick question on installing auto tune. Been searching for the answer, the instructions are not completly clear. When installing auto tune for the PV-1, if the header (FM 2-1-2) has both bung type connections, can both 12 mm and 18mm be installed or should I remove the 12 mm?
Thanks..
On my 2011 Ultra Limited I have S&S power tune duels, they have both 12 and 18 mm bungs. I have the PV with auto-tune module, so I have both (narrow & wide band sensors) installed. Everyday ride with stock 12mm narrow bands, AT with 18mm wide bands. Other than pipes, I also have 255 cams, and HD Ventilator air filter. System seems to work well and have been learning a lot from everyone here.
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