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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
So the answer I get about that is that the 14.6 in this table is a "software switch" which then refers the software to the Closed Loop Bias setting and when that is 720 you are at the riches end of the settings. = approixmately 14.2AFR
I'm a pretty much a noob, with enough info to be dangerous, but this is the explanation I received from both DJ and FM. so YMMV
How did you get 14.2 out of a 720 CLB? Sounds way too rich for 720. I would have to look it up but I dont think it's much richer than 14.6 or so. Assuming your math is using 14.68 for stoich. Just curious.
It is what it is. Way too many newbies overly concerned with gas mileage. Do you think tuners set up bikes at 14.6 BEFORE the EPA got involved with the MoCo? Nope. I just shake my head when I hear folks bragging about getting 50 MPG. The best overall AFR is between 13.8 and 14.0 for a mild build. Even a bone stock bike will run better around 14.0. Forget about mileage and set it up where it runs the best.
Yep! I'm pleased with how the bike runs with the 13.9 table but I'm gonna try it at 13.8 before making a set decision.
The important thing to remember is that the VE tables are not rich/lean control, not directly.
The VE tables are the MAP of the terrain, they tell the computer how much air it should expect. The fuel table (AFR or lamda) tells the computer what the target is. The VE tables are what it uses to try and hit the target.
In all load areas my tables (96", Andrews 48h, aftermarket intake/exaust) my VE tables vary from ~ 65% - 125%. Original cams (post AT runs) were ~ 60% - 95%.
What the specific value is a specific cell is _does not matter_. What matters is that the value is _ACCURATE_. If the VE tables are accurate, then what the fuel table says is what you will get. If you want richer/leaner you adjust the fual table...but you will only get the value you set in the fueld table _IF_ the VE tables are accurate.
2012 Sportster with 1200 engine - minimal change in .pvt file?
Bike: 2012 Sportster with 1200 engine
Configuration: SE A/C and SE slip-ons.
Set-up: I downloaded the .pvt file from Dynojet for my configuration. I then did the Delta function against the stock calibrations. The differences were very minimal. The AFR changed from 14.6 to 14.5 for much of the RPM range and a minor change to the Spark Advance at low RPMs.
Question: Should I be surprised that the .pvt file from Dynojet contained such minimal changes?
The important thing to remember is that the VE tables are not rich/lean control, not directly.
The VE tables are the MAP of the terrain, they tell the computer how much air it should expect. The fuel table (AFR or lamda) tells the computer what the target is. The VE tables are what it uses to try and hit the target.
In all load areas my tables (96", Andrews 48h, aftermarket intake/exaust) my VE tables vary from ~ 65% - 125%. Original cams (post AT runs) were ~ 60% - 95%.
What the specific value is a specific cell is _does not matter_. What matters is that the value is _ACCURATE_. If the VE tables are accurate, then what the fuel table says is what you will get. If you want richer/leaner you adjust the fual table...but you will only get the value you set in the fueld table _IF_ the VE tables are accurate.
So, I've run four or five auto tunes and each time, I've always built on the previous tune. Is this the correct procedure? I've noticed when setting up to do a session, and loading the last tune, the PV screen looks as if I'm starting from scratch. No blocks are filled at all.
Is this normal or am I screwing up somehow?
I've read of folks seeing engine temps of 250-260. I'm running hotter. It was 84 today and riding around in town (stop and go, but moving along) I'm seeing temps of 280-300. In heavy traffic, I'll see 300-315.
On cooler days (70s) moving along with no traffic I run around 250-260 or so.
Anyone else seeing these sorts of temps?
I'm running around 275 highway with 90 temps and in stop & go easily over 300. I even saw 350 after a couple of long lights. I had an actual dyno time done due to pinging and got rid of it until the temps are well over 300. I'm running a FM 107 with the stuff in my sig. Love to have it run cooler but not sure how to do that. I don't see how an oil cooler would drop it that much for the cost. Could there be anything mechanical causing these high temps? My oil pressure is great! Still learning the PV and wonder if a log tune would help any.
So if NB's are most effective 14.6 what happens to a tune when 10% ethanol is introduced to the equation? Another question: If NB's are most effective at 14.6 why are CLB's not set to 450mv?
Great question. i didnt think of that till hippie said Dynojet changed his CLB. If some one can answer this i would love to hear it. i have to completely revamp how i think. i never even gave the CLB table a thought. I have looked in my map and Fuelmoto seems to have a range they set mine in. So now im scratchin my head saying.....how is this altering my A/F table.
Different fuel blends and so on? I dont think all that much about that either Jim. I go to the pump. i know things will be a bit different at every gas station i pull into. That as far as my mind goes on that...again...anyone have an explaination as to what effects this will have? Im all ears.
I'm running around 275 highway with 90 temps and in stop & go easily over 300. I even saw 350 after a couple of long lights. I had an actual dyno time done due to pinging and got rid of it until the temps are well over 300. I'm running a FM 107 with the stuff in my sig. Love to have it run cooler but not sure how to do that. I don't see how an oil cooler would drop it that much for the cost. Could there be anything mechanical causing these high temps? My oil pressure is great! Still learning the PV and wonder if a log tune would help any.
I have one of those Jagg 5 row oil coolers and after install oil temps immediately dropped 20'F. I have a McEwan oil temp gauge with the sensor in oil pan. I think it is quite accurate. (I didn't have the PV at the time time of install.)
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