Im gonna post this question in here for advice rather than starting a new thread.

My current setup...

2014 FXDB
Arlen Ness Black Bevelled Inverted Series Air Cleaner
Bassani Road Rage 2-1
SERT

Its been tuned but still has decel pop and pisses me off. The tuner here just sucks. Thats a different discussion.

Im Active Duty Army. I say that because I'm sure to move to who knows where.

That aside, I intend to ride through Yellowstone to Chief Joseph scenic Hwy this summer. My wifes from Cody, WY so we spend July 4th there just about every year. The elevation difference concerns me with regard to my tune/ engine running properly.

Im also SERIOUSLY considering cams in the near future.

From what I read, I think a PV would be fantastic for my bike. I think it would save me the $ on future dyno tunes since I figure id have to get it tuned every time I move.

I love the idea of auto tune. Being able to read the parameters and make necessary changes seems like a no brainer for me.

What say you?

Second question, is my bike currently running "closed loop" or "open?"

Would I have to change the sensors to run the PV?

Im not even sure what the difference is or what it means, so maybe someone can make it stupid simple for me.

I really appreciate it.

 

Thanks for clarifying that for me.

 

Make sure run switch is on, and check he is getting a connection from the ECM, so a do a vehicle info check

 

Well you have a SERT so you do have access to change some things to get rid of decel pops. If you do buy a PV2 I can show you what was adjusted to get rid of popping. Basically richened up the Decel Enleanment table, richened up the VE's in the decel area and AFR table area. all gone.

None of the canned tune maps included with the various tuners will address decel popping, at least from what I have learned over the past weeks. it's something you have to adjust manually but it's not hard.

No need to change sensors with the PV2, it just plugs in to the data port, you program, then remove it- or mount it and use it for viewing ride data.

More than likely your bike is running closed loop in the cruise and idle areas of your AFR table, and open loop in the accel / decel / wot ranges. it's like that on most bikes unless you specifically created an open loop fuel mapping and are running everything richer than 14.1 in the AFR table.

I'm sure some of the guys here much more knowledgeable than me will chime in-

 

Really appreciate the insight.

Im prob gonna go for it. Since ill prob be stationed in different areas that will require me more dyno time in the long run, I think it'll serve me well.

You're saying the O2 sensors I already have will work with the PV2 for auto tune? Cause my exhaust can run 12mm or 18mm, I think.

 

Yes- your stock narrow band O2 sensors will work fine and you can auto-tune. You can buy the add on "Pro" kit for the PV2 for another 300 or so bucks, and it lets you auto-tune with wide band sensors.

 

Well, thats all the affirmation I need to spend $700.

Thanks again.

Ill let y'all know how it goes.

 

IMO, I would just get the basic PV2 and skip the pro add on. the pro add on will still not tune out decel popping. that must be done by editing the aforementioned tables / settings in the actual tune file.

FYI- There is a new, better "pro" product coming out Q2 called "target tune", from what I understand it will replace the current Pro kit as an add-on to the PV2. the cool thing is it will let you not only tune with wideband and choose your preferred AFR to tune against, it will also modify the HD ECM to operate using wideband data. Presently the HD ECM only operates with narrowband data- so even though you have tuned with the current pro kit and wideband, and have wideband o2 sensors installed, the HD ECM only uses them in a narrow-band mode.

Given this, I'm waiting for the new target tune add on to come out - the regular PV2 has been more than adequate to tune anything i need - the key was learning how it works and how the HD EFI system works, and getting some guidance from knowledgeable members here.

 

Going to answer inline since there are so many great questions here. I will use RED.

A very unusual issue you are having here. Usually of you get to the point of actually having the map loaded, and that runs okay, then moving to Autotunes and working through that, is a fairly painless process. I am not finding this the case.

The PV sets all AFR cells to 14.6 and then subtracts 4' of timing for the AT session so typically the bike may run slighly rougher than when not in AT mode.. but nothing like you describe. You talk about lugging, and then detonation or winding up and then detonation.. it sounds like the bike is just not firing correctly then starts to, but maybe it's loaded up with gas and boom.. detonation.

A question and a couple of suggestions:

Did you call FM and ask for help with this? That is the very first thing to do. I assume you did. I have not as I just got all of the parts on the bike and now am in Sweden for business until May 1st. This will be priority when I return.

Did you install the pipes, AC and PV all at once? I'm just wondering if something isn't amiss, and just not obvious under the no AT mode but becomes obvious when AT is initiated. Got those headers seated properly on the heads? First the headers only, then the A/C, then the CFRs. All within a week and all parts are on right now. I believe the headers are seated properly. I used new gaskets and have them torqued to spec.

Can you go back to the Original Tune and tell us how it runs. You should have saved the Original Tune when you married the PV to the bike. Even with the AC and the pipes you should be able to ride the bike without issue that way. Will go back to the original tune as soon as I get back to the US.

In fact, you could do a AT from that point and see what happens.

Are you sure you've got everything with the headers/slip-ons/AC all installed correctly and no leaks and obvious physical issues?

I know little about these CFRs but from what I gather they are quite low restriction pipes, I'm wondering if that has something to do with this? You might even think about putting the stock pipes back on... just to see if this problem goes away. I'm not trying to say your pipes are bad, but just trying to narrow down the possible issues.

I don't have a map to give you. There might be a map for your config on the Dynojet web site you could download and try but I'd still be eyeballing all the other things you might have touched doing the mods.

Call FM too, unfortunately it's now the week-end, but give them a call if you haven't.

 

Ah, Sweden! Tough to work on it from there. I spent 200 days of both 04 and 05 in Stockholm working with Ericcson. Stayed at the Hotel Slusen which was very nice. Have the salmon and lobster bisque at the Cantina in the Sqaure at Galmastan!

okay.. enough of that. I'm sure it is frustrating not being able to get your hands on the bike.

Autotuning does not usually create any kind of change in the bike's running that is so severe/different that it goes into the spasms you talk about. It's just not a common occurance, which is why I was looking for other potential issues that might just manifest itself at AT time.

Another thought, is that the Powervision has a great feature in Vehicle Tools > Stored DTCs for you to easily read codes you might be throwing. It might be helpful to see what codes may be being generated.

Luckily it's almost May 1st. Do call the team out at Fuel Moto as soon as you can and get some insight and support from them. Please let us know how you make out.

Steve