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Hi folks- I have done a frame up restoration/customisation on ‘81 FLH. New wiring harness and aftermarket brake and clutch levers from GMA with 3 momentary switches per side.
I am trying to sort the connections from starter and kill switch into the wiring terminal block and onward. I do have the manual and wiring diagrams- I have been referencing both 78/79 and 80-84, but the images are a bit blurry.
My question is, what is the second lead of the starter switch connected to? One side clearly goes to terminal 4 and from there to starter relay - makes sense. On one diagram it looks like the second lead from switch is connected to the white lead from kill switch. This is the way I wired it, but it doesn’t seem to work. This white lead goes to the coil. I am thinking that it should actually be connected to the grey lead of the kill switch, connected to terminal 5, and from there to the ignition relay. This makes much more sense- pressing starter then sends 12v to starter relay.
Can someone please confirm this either way?
Thanks in advance!
I can attach images of diagrams and leads if that helps.
It does go to the White lead of the switch, this should be the middle terminal of the
switch, the 12V feed comes from Grey wire to terminal 5
Item 26 is kill switch,22 is start button
Thanks Baird! This diagram is much more legible- what is the source? Is there a second diagram that shows the starting/ignition circuits? And a legend for the numbers?
My next question is about kill switch is standard handlebar controls. As mentioned I have installed aftermarket GMA brake and clutch levers that include 3 momentary switches (see pic below). These are referred to as Normally Open (NO). So, the switch I am using for kill (guessing this is RUN-OFF in troubleshooting section) is open unless pushed. So, key question is does the stock kill switch operate in “normally closed”? If so, it would be completing 12v power to both coil and to momentary starter switch when it is pushed to Run. When pushed to “off” (open) it would then disconnect 12v to coil, presumably killing engine. By default, there would be no 12v available to starter switch unless this switch was closed.
This would make most sense to me- can you confirm? Unfortunately I don’t have the stock controls any more so I can’t validate myself. I can potentially replace the NO momentary switch with a latching push button which can operate either open or closed.
Going to have to use relays with those for the starter and high/low beams. That's the old style early shovel switches and they were a pain, broke easy so heads up when soldering, they don't take much manhandling or wire twisting to pop the backs off where the tabs are. Those do not come in a latching style, that again will be added relay's and non stock wiring.
Get a copy of the factory HD manual. There was a guy selling them in PDF format on Ebay some time back. He says that HD has no interest in those old dinosaur manuals anymore so no copyright issues. Find the correct wiring diagram for your bike in that manual. Print it out and have it blown up to about 11 x 17 and paste it to a piece of heavy cardboard or something. You can have it right next to you for reference when working on your bike.
As for as the kill switch goes, it's a rocker switch. Not a momentary off switch.
TwiZted Biker, yes, I have wired relay for high/low beam which works. The '81 has a low amp starter relay (Bosch style) already, so I think it should work if I get the connections right.
Carl, I have the factory service and parts manuals in PDF. Below is the wiring diagram for 80-84, as well as the one for 78-79, which is actually a bit more legible.
I believe that I have wired correctly - second wire for start switch connected to white wire from kill switch. The problem (I believe) is that the kill switch needs to be a two way switch (like rocker in stock controls) that is normally closed (RUN), therefore providing 12v to white side and therefore strter button. I can source a latching switch (on-off) or a Normally Closed momentary switch that would fit into the GMA housing. Or, on a completely different track, I also have a lever action starter solenoid and matching relay that I could install that would bypass all of the handlebar wiring. That said, I believe I would still need to sort the kill switch.
Can someone confirm that the RUN position of the Kill switch is closed? Based on everything I know at this point I am 99% sure...
Rykk that momentary switch for a Run / Kill is not going to ever be satisfactory. Yes the Run would be closed and the Stop would be open. Bite the bullet and wire up a separate Rocker On/Off switch. Another suggestion is head to Ebay and get some used O.E.M switches and controls, they will be easier to maintain in the long run.
Rykk that momentary switch for a Run / Kill is not going to ever be satisfactory. Yes the Run would be closed and the Stop would be open. Bite the bullet and wire up a separate Rocker On/Off switch. Another suggestion is head to Ebay and get some used O.E.M switches and controls, they will be easier to maintain in the long run.
Thanks Mike for confirming the position/state of the kill switch- makes total sense. I was wanting to go with the GMA switches for that cleaner look (have also routed the wires inside bars). They seem to work fine for everything else, but useless if I can't start the bike! I had also thought of a single handlebar mount rocker for kill. May try that as next step.
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FLH starter switch wiring
