DIY Cheap Mods
Stage III
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 3
Likes: 1
From: Hawaii
Homemade Side mount License plate bracket for Rocker C
I really hate the way the license plate
looks sticking up like a billboard off the rear fender of the HD's. I like the look of the side mount plate and the curved side mount plate even more. I wanted something unique and low profile yet legal, not to mention inexpensive unwilling to pay $150-$250 they charge for a production piece.
I welded up a bracket that only bolts on with one bolt. The other end sits tight inside where you use the wrench to take off the rear wheel. I found a nut that slid into it and welded on a piece of curved metal that I got from an old tablesaw guard. Welded on two cross tabs to hold the plate and then welded on a tube spacer and washer to give it the clearance it needed over the chain/belt guard. I preped it and powdercoated it candy blue. I was amazed that it is a perfect match to the blue color on my Rocker. Lastly I bent the $5 chrome license plate frame and my plate to the curve of the metal brackety and screwed it down tight.
Next is to clean up the fender and remove the original chrome mount/light bracket. Sorry the pictures don't do it justice. I will try and get better pics with my digi cam instead of my phone.
This is my first project I have made for my bike, let me know what yall think!
looks sticking up like a billboard off the rear fender of the HD's. I like the look of the side mount plate and the curved side mount plate even more. I wanted something unique and low profile yet legal, not to mention inexpensive unwilling to pay $150-$250 they charge for a production piece. I welded up a bracket that only bolts on with one bolt. The other end sits tight inside where you use the wrench to take off the rear wheel. I found a nut that slid into it and welded on a piece of curved metal that I got from an old tablesaw guard. Welded on two cross tabs to hold the plate and then welded on a tube spacer and washer to give it the clearance it needed over the chain/belt guard. I preped it and powdercoated it candy blue. I was amazed that it is a perfect match to the blue color on my Rocker
. Lastly I bent the $5 chrome license plate frame and my plate to the curve of the metal brackety and screwed it down tight.Next is to clean up the fender and remove the original chrome mount/light bracket. Sorry the pictures don't do it justice. I will try and get better pics with my digi cam instead of my phone.
This is my first project I have made for my bike, let me know what yall think!
Thread Starter
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May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
You did a very nice job making it, but I think it should have been angled back or rotated clockwise a little more.
From behind I don't think you can see the top numbers too easily and in some areas the police might not like it.
Florida will defiantly not like it, but being as your in Hawaii I don't think that's going to be much of a problem.
PS do you have anything setup to light it at night? I only ask because I don't see any lights. If not a set of four plate mounting bolts with LED's would do that for you.
From behind I don't think you can see the top numbers too easily and in some areas the police might not like it.
Florida will defiantly not like it, but being as your in Hawaii I don't think that's going to be much of a problem.
PS do you have anything setup to light it at night? I only ask because I don't see any lights. If not a set of four plate mounting bolts with LED's would do that for you.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 330
Likes: 1
From: Goldsboro, NC
I agree with Citoriplus, the work you did to make that is great. The powder coat color looks like it came with the bike. I only wish I had the tools to do that. However looking at it on the bike, the inspection plate blocks part of the plate and the angle may be a bit too much to be able to see the whole thing. Have you had any problems with it yet?
Road Master
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 983
Likes: 4
From: Fredericksburg, Va
ur2lso- Nice job making that bracket. I had made something similiar (not as fancy) that allowed the plate to sit horizontal with abut an 1/8" of clearance from the rear axle nut. Used a turn signal bracket (found in custom chrome catalogue for about 8.), then a rocker axle kit (top down, for around $24) and a Radiantz license plate w/LED's (I think I paid $20). So it ran me about $60 and took about 2 months to find the right parts....I think I previously posted this in the cheap forums but cant remember. Better than paying $3-400 for something as simple as a plate holder! You did a great job but like Citoriplus was mentioning you may want to consider plate lights for more visibility and legality purposes.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 270
Likes: 1
From: san diego
yep im a cheap bastard my forks,mirror,light,grenade,oil lines,oil cap,swing arm,belt cover,plate holder and other various parts have been rattle canned old school style but looks very proffesional i might add
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: West Palm Beach, Florida
The factory rubber grips on my Springer were leaving black sticky goo on my hands after so many years... Couldn't make up my mind on a new set of grips so I did an improvised "get by" mod. A quick trip to an arts and crafts store, bought a piece of thin leather (Tandy Leather Co.), a bottle of rubber cement, a roll of sinew thread and some curved needles. Cut the leather to size (slightly smaller diameter than the grips), added a smooth layer of rubber cement to the leather and the old grips and wrapped them on. Stretch them a little and begin stitching leaving the loops nice and large. Once I had stitched the entire length, (stitches on the bottom of the grip) I ran the two ends of the sinew thread back through all the loops of the stiches then starting at the center, pulled each stitch tight. Last step was to pull each end of the sinew thread to secure them and snip the excess.
The sinew thread is waxed, which acts a both a lube for stitching and stays somewhat sticky to prevent the stitches from backing out. Stretching the leather a little causes it to stick and bond very well with no slipping. I used a med-light brown leather and got a great look with the black ends offsetting the brown.
Unfortunately, I got no pics and then got crashed and the grips were damaged. New grips as part of repairs, and I plan to cover them soon and will post pics of the new version. I also plan to add some decorative stitching to the leather before installation to add even more grip to the surface.
The sinew thread is waxed, which acts a both a lube for stitching and stays somewhat sticky to prevent the stitches from backing out. Stretching the leather a little causes it to stick and bond very well with no slipping. I used a med-light brown leather and got a great look with the black ends offsetting the brown.
Unfortunately, I got no pics and then got crashed and the grips were damaged. New grips as part of repairs, and I plan to cover them soon and will post pics of the new version. I also plan to add some decorative stitching to the leather before installation to add even more grip to the surface.
Advanced
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 1
I wanted to mount my throw-over saddlebags, but did not want pay the money for the mounting kits. I'm really cheap and like to work on my own bike, so I decided to make my own mounts.
I took 16 gauge steel and created plates to mount to the saddlebags. I installed longer bolts (reversed the direction) for the quick-release backrest mounts and that is where the saddlebags mount to. Remove two acorn nuts on the inside of the saddlebag, and the bags are off. I think it turned out OK and the price was right for me. The steel was $15 and the nuts and bolts were about $8.
I took 16 gauge steel and created plates to mount to the saddlebags. I installed longer bolts (reversed the direction) for the quick-release backrest mounts and that is where the saddlebags mount to. Remove two acorn nuts on the inside of the saddlebag, and the bags are off. I think it turned out OK and the price was right for me. The steel was $15 and the nuts and bolts were about $8.
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6th Gear
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
Bear68-
I've been thinking about doing the same thing, except wanted to do it for looks; (guess great minds think alike) do you think the rubber cement is necessary? I was going to try without adhesive, just cinching it down tight with the stitching... do you think it would work w/o the sticky stuff?
thx
I've been thinking about doing the same thing, except wanted to do it for looks; (guess great minds think alike) do you think the rubber cement is necessary? I was going to try without adhesive, just cinching it down tight with the stitching... do you think it would work w/o the sticky stuff?
thx
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 270
Likes: 2
From: West Palm Beach, Florida
Hey TexasFlash, Welcome to the forums from another newbie! I would definitely recommend the rubber cement, just a thin layer, or some other type of adhesive. When I got crashed the leather actually wrinkled just a little from the force of my hands gripping during the collision. The dealer let me collect the old parts, (trashed em all anyways but I apprfeciated the chance to examine them closer) and I saw that the leather actually held up very well, but it did seem to have slipped a bit.
Using a thin layer of some adhesive is a good idea, just try to keep it nice end even so you don't get lumps. My next attempt, I plan to abuse my wife's sewing machine (DON"T TELL HER!) and add some decorative stitching. Should be pretty simple to print a design on the comp and then trace it onto the leather then follow the pattern with stitching, using a lighter weight thread. Pics will come when I get it done.... (provided the wife doesn't strangle me when she sees me doing leatherwork on her machine
)
Using a thin layer of some adhesive is a good idea, just try to keep it nice end even so you don't get lumps. My next attempt, I plan to abuse my wife's sewing machine (DON"T TELL HER!) and add some decorative stitching. Should be pretty simple to print a design on the comp and then trace it onto the leather then follow the pattern with stitching, using a lighter weight thread. Pics will come when I get it done.... (provided the wife doesn't strangle me when she sees me doing leatherwork on her machine
)