Well done xray, is the mounting stainless steel or are you going to use some kind of paint on the mounting?
Any kind of black, even a wrinkle finish would go well with the chrome spring/shock behind it.

 

This being MK I, I plan on rattle caning it (who an I kidding I planned on rattle caning the ffinal, I like the stainless idea though, once I finalize the design,(lower and tighter to the shock) I think I'll go stainless

 

converting to solo riding and thought I'd make my own bib.





I used MS publisher to make a template for the shape, but there are many similar and freee apps that you can use to make a measured shape and print it out. This case the fender is about 7" wide and from the edge of the seat to the rear nut was about 13". I made a basic template with rounded corners, printed it on paper and cut it out into a basic stencil/guide to cut the leather to shape.

I then dry fit it and tapped on the screw holes with an awl and drilled it out with a 3/8 drill bit (make the holes just a tiny bit closer so the leather needs to stretch a bit to fitinto the holes)


Ace hardware is the place for all your chrome hardware that doesn't cost a fortune...




I'm going to see how the leather settles onto the the fender after soaking it in some neetsfoot oil and putting it on still wet. if it doesn't settle in enough, I'll either tape it down (wrapping it to the fender) and let it dry or trim the sides a bit more.

All in all, it only cost me $5.00 for the neetsfoot oil and $3.00 for some chrome acorn nuts from ACE Hardware. (and the lid from an old saddlebag that I kept around for materials...)

 

Good idea, but if you have to tape it down you might want to try putting some wax paper (the real kind you get in a grocery store for cooking) under it to keep the tape from sticking to the polished outer of the fenders.
Tape has a bad habit of leaving adhesive behind that can be a PITA to get off later.
The wax paper will also prevent the wet leather, and ANY grit that might be on or under it from scratching the finish as it shrinks.

 

Flag mast (poles) for license plate

I've always liked riding with flags on my bike and currently just buy the cheap 4 for $3.00 bag of hand flags from walmart and stick into the bracket around the license plate.

I'm too cheap to buy the commercial flag and mount products, so I decided to make my own.

Parts list: (all from my local Ace Hardware)
2 each, 1/4" x 12" aluminum craft tube @ $1.49 (Stainless Steel was $4.99)
1 each, 10-32 x 36" Stainless threaded rod @ $6.19
2 each, 10-32 lock nuts @ $.35
2 each, 10-32 chrome acorn nuts @ $1.39
6 each, 1/4" washers @ $.14 (inner diameter needs to accept the theaded rod, but the outer needs to be as small as possible while being larger than the 1/4" aluminum rod)
1 each, bag of 18 1/4" nylon cable clamps @ $2.99 (only need 4 of them)
1 each, rattle can of gloss black spray paint (or your preference) @ $2.00
1 each, bag of 4 hand flags @ $3.00 (only need 2)

Steps:
Cut the threaded bar into 2 x 12.5" lengths (discard remainder). One of the guys at Ace did this for me

Measure the height of the licence plate in its bracket (about 3") and cut the 1/4" tube to that length

Screw the acorn cap finger tight all the way on to one end of each piece of threaded bar.

add washer, long part of tube, washer, short piece of tube, washer, lock nut.

Tighten lock nut until the tubes no longer spin freely, then back it off a tiny bit. You want the tube to be able to spin easily but not jump around.







Disassemble

Prep for painting by cleaning the edges of the cut tubes and thread bar of sharp edges and goo. (file and Goo Gone)

Paint the tubes (or not if you choose to use stainless and want it exposed)

Once the paint is dry, use silicone glue to attach the flags to the long piece of tube and allow it to set. Silicone glue is soft and flexible and should last longer than the flags. When you wish to replace the flag, you can peel the glue off with a fingernail without damaging the paint and replace with a new flag.

Reassemble

Use the cable clamps to attach the flag rods to the back of the license plate.

*note: If you have a horizontal bracket that you'd prefer to attach to, add about 1/4" to the length of the threaded rod, get an additional locknut and washer for each pole and put the extra locknut on backwards threading it up to leave about 1/4"-1/2" exposed on the bottom to mount into your bracket. Secure with the washer and locknut.

Done.

Total cost of parts, about $20.00

BTW, while painting the aluminum rods, I also spray painted the back of my license plate. Took only a minute and looks alot better. I also picked up a second license frame ($7.00) to match the one in the front and sandwiched the plate in the middle... looks better.

 

I ended up with an old dresser in the garage so I decided to put it to some good and store all my helmets, seats, special HD tools, and all the old stock parts. Looked a little out of place, so I bought some krylon and went to work. Whaddayathink?

 

Radimus,
Very clever, I love simple things, especially the ones that are cheap and easy.
BTW
That would also work on plates that were laid down if you just bend the threaded rod and the lower part of the sleeve as a unit so they can stand up straight.

bigoil7,
WhatdoIthink, I think its a great idea, especially the colors.

 

Absolute Genius!! Worked like a charm.

 

not much point riding today so I made a registration lable holder

I moved my coil on the train and was going to pull the seat post...

I had a lot of people with much more experience than me say dont do it but the bracket sitting there kinda bugged me

So I thoought I'd put it to some use

a plastic tube 2 chair leg caps 2 metal saddles and a couple of nut & bolts
and there ya go....

 

I used some flexible magnetic strip to hold my home made bib down....