DIY Cheap Mods
Road Master
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 762
Likes: 1
From: mission bc canada
DIY heelguard
ok ive melted my boot on the exhaust for the last time..
my boot heel has mellted on the exhaust more than once ..carl miles heel guard for harley footboards are $68.00 on ebay for $3.00 worth of material..their instructions show spacers to clear side lip of floor board i notched mine to allow for better fit and it will be much stringer this way will also slot 2 of the holes for adjustment..
so i decided to make my own..simple but effective.the pic above shows the turn out style they also make a turn down and a smaller straight guard..i decided on the smaller straight style.
materials needed:
6" - 3/4"x1/8" flat bar
6" - 5/16" round bar
2 - bolts of choice [ i went with 1/4" stainless with nylocs ]
so heres a couple pics first i cut the flatbar to length then bent it at 90*.then cut the round bar to length and chamfered the ends
ok now time to cut the edge of the footboard to fit the 3/4" flatbar so i cut a 3/4"W x 3/8"D knotch in the side
time to drill some holes and countersink them for smoother finish and more clearance
installed on footboard
my boot heel has mellted on the exhaust more than once ..carl miles heel guard for harley footboards are $68.00 on ebay for $3.00 worth of material..their instructions show spacers to clear side lip of floor board i notched mine to allow for better fit and it will be much stringer this way will also slot 2 of the holes for adjustment..
so i decided to make my own..simple but effective.the pic above shows the turn out style they also make a turn down and a smaller straight guard..i decided on the smaller straight style.
materials needed:
6" - 3/4"x1/8" flat bar
6" - 5/16" round bar
2 - bolts of choice [ i went with 1/4" stainless with nylocs ]
so heres a couple pics first i cut the flatbar to length then bent it at 90*.then cut the round bar to length and chamfered the ends
ok now time to cut the edge of the footboard to fit the 3/4" flatbar so i cut a 3/4"W x 3/8"D knotch in the side
time to drill some holes and countersink them for smoother finish and more clearance
installed on footboard
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 5,230
Likes: 4
From: Amherst, VA
Couldn't stand the chrome trips anymore and until I can afford to replace them I painted em up with this - no prep and bonds to hard to bond surfaces ie; plastic, metal etc... http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 222
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Fl
Was wondering the same thing. Guess there is more to be pissed about if the bike tips. In the meanwhile, good idea
I used one piece of flat stock, and bent it to curve around the pipe, and put a hole in one end to go over the muffler flange bolt, so the board can fold up regardless.
Don't be hatin', it's just the way I did mine.
Don't be hatin', it's just the way I did mine.
2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: East Bend, NC
Tired of saggy bags
This is my first post. Been hanging out a while and thought it time to contribute. I'm surprised I've not seen this one, probably in a different thread but just in case...
I wanted the clearance of hard bags on my standard but also wanted the throw over, old school look (read as cheap.) So I took a set of throw overs I had from a previous life and created internal braces by cutting plexiglass in the shape of the bags, drilled holes in four spots of the plexiglass, two on the bottom and one at each upper corner. Took 4 - 5x1/2" bolts and 12 nuts/washers per side to create the look of hard bags. I used 5" bolts as that was the depth of the bags. Other bags may have various depths.
I tightened a washer and nut against the plexiglass and bolt head, then used nuts and washers as backstops for the otherside, sandwiching the plexiglass between. You have to be careful to not overtighten anything as the plexiglass will crack and/or break. Just get it tight. Be careful too when cutting and drilling and leave the film on the plexiglass until you have completed everything.
Once complete, the brace slides right inside the bag and the end result makes for better clearance over the pipes and drive while giving the appearance of hard sided bags. I no longer smell smoking leather at stop lights and, even if there is nothing in them, they look full. Total cost was less than $25 for bolts and plexiglass at Lowes Home Improvement. The saddle bags, well, cheaper than the hard sided ones with mounts.
I wanted the clearance of hard bags on my standard but also wanted the throw over, old school look (read as cheap.) So I took a set of throw overs I had from a previous life and created internal braces by cutting plexiglass in the shape of the bags, drilled holes in four spots of the plexiglass, two on the bottom and one at each upper corner. Took 4 - 5x1/2" bolts and 12 nuts/washers per side to create the look of hard bags. I used 5" bolts as that was the depth of the bags. Other bags may have various depths.
I tightened a washer and nut against the plexiglass and bolt head, then used nuts and washers as backstops for the otherside, sandwiching the plexiglass between. You have to be careful to not overtighten anything as the plexiglass will crack and/or break. Just get it tight. Be careful too when cutting and drilling and leave the film on the plexiglass until you have completed everything.
Once complete, the brace slides right inside the bag and the end result makes for better clearance over the pipes and drive while giving the appearance of hard sided bags. I no longer smell smoking leather at stop lights and, even if there is nothing in them, they look full. Total cost was less than $25 for bolts and plexiglass at Lowes Home Improvement. The saddle bags, well, cheaper than the hard sided ones with mounts.
Thread Starter
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May our Moderator Rest in Peace
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,386
Likes: 35
From: Rochester, NY
I like it, its a good, cheap way to go.
BTW one suggestion is that if you want to use plexiglass, instead of using bolts and washers alone on the 'glass'.
Drill larger holes and find some rubber grommets to fit.
Then if you put the washers and nuts on they are less likely to crack the 'glass' if you make it a little too tight.
The rubber will also allow it to flex a little bit more without breaking while still holding the bags shape.
BTW one suggestion is that if you want to use plexiglass, instead of using bolts and washers alone on the 'glass'.
Drill larger holes and find some rubber grommets to fit.
Then if you put the washers and nuts on they are less likely to crack the 'glass' if you make it a little too tight.
The rubber will also allow it to flex a little bit more without breaking while still holding the bags shape.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: East Bend, NC
I like it, its a good, cheap way to go.
BTW one suggestion is that if you want to use plexiglass, instead of using bolts and washers alone on the 'glass'.
Drill larger holes and find some rubber grommets to fit.
Then if you put the washers and nuts on they are less likely to crack the 'glass' if you make it a little too tight.
The rubber will also allow it to flex a little bit more without breaking while still holding the bags shape.
BTW one suggestion is that if you want to use plexiglass, instead of using bolts and washers alone on the 'glass'.
Drill larger holes and find some rubber grommets to fit.
Then if you put the washers and nuts on they are less likely to crack the 'glass' if you make it a little too tight.
The rubber will also allow it to flex a little bit more without breaking while still holding the bags shape.
Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 222
Likes: 1
From: Jacksonville, Fl
I thought I was the only one that thought of this til I saw it a few pages back! Like $3 for the doorstop at Home Depot. I sprayed it with some appliance epoxy(stuff is tough as nails, sprayed my fork lowers with it also) and bam! New air cleaner cover. I like the exposed filter look as well, I just keep a fliter rain sleeve in the solo bag in case it starts to pour.