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DYNO Numbers for Baggers???

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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:45 PM
  #2881  
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Originally Posted by Heatwave
Seems like you're always looking to pick an argument. I stated that it would be helpful to see the dyno chart results from 2-3000rpms. Obviously its at WOT but understanding whether the engine is optimized to deliver strong performance between 2000-3000rpms at WOT is just as important and I would suggest far more important that the absolute peak #s at WOT.

Being able to pass a truck on a highway (WOT from cruising speed) is a whole lot more convenient when you don't have to drop a gear or at worst, you only need to drop a single gear.

A WOT dyno chart will absolutely show the owner if the tuning has been optimized in the ranges the rider is in most often. In fact after years of reading dyno charts, I have never read one that only started at 3000 rpms...NEVER. Why a tuner would find that useful is beyond me and of no real value to the owner without the WOT performance between 2-3000. And I made no references to wanting to know the performance below 3000rpms because that's where we "cruise". In fact I didn't make any reference other than suggesting it would be good to see the performance between 2-3000rpms. And it would be, which is why every chart on this entire thread starts somewhere below 3000rpms.

Of course the dyno's posted are peak #s at WOT. But wouldn't you want to know if you bike was well tuned so that you could "whack" the throttle from a cruisng speed and not have it stumble or leave ponies on the table? A good tuner should provide the customer with charts at varying operationing levels such as cruising and WOT. And newer bikes (throttle-by-wire) will show the performance in KPa, not TP.

Any time you want to "walk back" your view about Dyno charts is fine by me, but there's no legitimate reason for deleting off the 2-3000rpm range from a peak performance dyno chart. None...which is why no one else does it!
go back and read lonewolf's post on why it was done (started at 3K). He did my throttleblade cals and unbelievable difference in throttle response. I have seen a fair amount of dyno sheets starting at 3K lately right wrong or indifferent. as far as picking an arguement hmmm...........................
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 09:55 PM
  #2882  
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Default review my dyno tune

Scoot: 2011 Road Glide 103

At 1043 miles i got my bike dyno tuned with the Mastertune TTS with Thunderheaders 2-1 and LA Chopper air kit.

The bike pulls like a diesel throughout the range. I love the torque. For the most part i'm happy with it except there's a pop/backfire every once in a while when upshifting and or staying constant on the throttle and letting off for a split second. Looking at the chart the lines are zig zagged up/down throughout the range. What does that mean? All dyno charts i see dont look like that.

Talked with the tuner and he emailed me another map and sent me some cables but i have no clue where to begin. Anybody highly knowledgeable with the Mastertune?
 
Attached Thumbnails  DYNO Numbers for Baggers???-dyno-tune.jpg  
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #2883  
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Originally Posted by Heatwave
I stated that it would be helpful to see the dyno chart results from 2-3000rpms. Obviously its at WOT but understanding whether the engine is optimized to deliver strong performance between 2000-3000rpms at WOT is just as important and I would suggest far more important that the absolute peak #s at WOT.
I think what is confusing on that dyno sheet is that that sheet is showing a run that was made to calibrate the fuel. From 20% to the 60% tp's you have the brake set to 2000 rpm (TBW and cable bikes) On the TBW bikes if you adjust the throttle control blade table you can set it to 2500 (cable can be left at 2000), any less and you will not get to your tp. Usually if you can't adjust the table even though the grip is twisted all the way you will not see 100% until 2750-3000 rpm. The reason to set the brake like this is so you can get your throttle position and let the brake bring it down to the locked rpm. Then once you push the sample button, it releases the brake and the run begins. If you don't use the brake, by the time you got to any of the throttle positions you would be long past 2000 or 2500 rpm. When doing the final wot pulls you don't have to come off the brake, just be at your rpm, hit the sample button and whack the throttle. This is why the graphs look different. Looking at the datamaster shot you can see that even though the grip is twisted all the way the tps is still only 76.4%. On the dyno sheet in question it looks to be tuned with the PCV. Hopefully I'm not mistaken and it's the Powervision. With the PCV you have no throttle blade adjustment. Now the guessing part. Sometimes when tuning and you have the whole afr table set to 13.5 the leaner mixture tuning can actually show more power than when it's set to a safe 13 or 12.5 on the final pull. Maybe that's why he got that sheet.
 
Attached Thumbnails  DYNO Numbers for Baggers???-tuning-by-tp.jpg    DYNO Numbers for Baggers???-final-pull.jpg    DYNO Numbers for Baggers???-tps.jpg  
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 11:02 PM
  #2884  
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Originally Posted by scratchpad
For the most part i'm happy with it except there's a pop/backfire every once in a while when upshifting and or staying constant on the throttle and letting off for a split second. but i have no clue where to begin.
You should do a data log to see the temps you are getting the pops and then lower the corresponding cells 5-10% as a start.

Originally Posted by scratchpad
Scoot: 2011 Road Glide 103
Looking at the chart the lines are zig zagged up/down throughout the range. What does that mean? All dyno charts i see dont look like that.
Just has it set on smoothing 2 instead of 5. Nothing to worry about.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 05:30 AM
  #2885  
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
You should do a data log to see the temps you are getting the pops and then lower the corresponding cells 5-10% as a start.



Just has it set on smoothing 2 instead of 5. Nothing to worry about.
How do i do that? Is there a tutorial on the Mastertune TTS somewhere?
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 05:57 AM
  #2886  
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Originally Posted by harleytuner
You must have some pretty thin skin. I'm not the one looking to pick an arguement. I guess I misread your post the same as you misread mine. No biggie. you posted that it was more important to see a bikes performance between 2 and 3,000 RPM's, since that's where most people spend the majority riding. I took that as you were saying that the 2 - 3,000 RPM range of the dyno sheet was representing cruising. My bad.



And i've never posted one that starts at 3,000 RPM's. I start my runs at 2,000 RPM's. I have no idea why the one in question was started at 3,000. I don't see where you are thinking that a WOT runshow how good the other ranges were tuned. that makes NO sence to me. You can tune WOT all you want, that doesn't mean the rest of the TP's are tuned. It would show you what the bike would do if you were, say, cruising at a certain speed and went wide open. But most people don't go 100% to pass, they might roll to 80% or whatever. I agree that it is good to see 2000 RPM's, like I said, that's how I run them and that's how I post them.



I would agree with all this. There really isn't a chart we can post that shows cruising, we could show you TP's through the RPM range, like I said, bikes cruise at around 7 - 15% throttle position. I'll supply the sheets when customers request them, but other than the a/f printe, there's not much to look at.



Again, I don't run them starting at 3k, so I don't know why you would say this to me, but what ever trips your fancy. I really could care less about what you think, you label me as trying to start arguments, maybe you should take a long hard look at yourself before making these statments. I don't mind a good healthy debate, but I couldn't give 2 ***** about getting into a pissing match with you.
It sounds like you agree that it makes no sense to drop off the performance of a bike between 2-3000rpms when dyno-tuning a bike and recording a WOT chart. Which was the only point of my original question.

I agree about the cruise charts but they are still worth it for a customer to view. Ensruring the bike has a relatively flat and lean AF (14) for the front cylinder and a slightly richer chart for the rear cylinder is good to know and probably just as important as the bragging sheet. For cruise, the only thing you're capturing is the AFR to ensure the bike will get reasonably good fuel economy but not so lean that it threatens the bike.
 

Last edited by Heatwave; Oct 10, 2011 at 06:07 AM.
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:39 AM
  #2887  
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Originally Posted by scratchpad
Scoot: 2011 Road Glide 103

At 1043 miles i got my bike dyno tuned with the Mastertune TTS with Thunderheaders 2-1 and LA Chopper air kit.

The bike pulls like a diesel throughout the range. I love the torque. For the most part i'm happy with it except there's a pop/backfire every once in a while when upshifting and or staying constant on the throttle and letting off for a split second. Looking at the chart the lines are zig zagged up/down throughout the range. What does that mean? All dyno charts i see dont look like that.

Talked with the tuner and he emailed me another map and sent me some cables but i have no clue where to begin. Anybody highly knowledgeable with the Mastertune?
The backfire you are hearing sounds like you decel enleanment need to be adjusted, it's not that hard to do. I can walk you through it it you'd like. I can PM you my phone number id it would be easier. I can't quit make out the deatails in your sheet. Up in the top right corner, you should see some letter and then smoothing, (like SAE cmoothing 5). What does your say? Kind've looks like it might be set to smoothing 3? Smoothing basically just averages between readings on the dyno and makes the lines look nicer. Some shops keep them low because they show higher numbers, but the line doesn't look as nice. If your bike runs good with the MAP that is on it (except for your backfire issues) you can download that MAP from your bike to your computer and make the changes to it. And if you'd like ot learn and tinker with it, you can do some V-tune recording runs and see how far off the tune is.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:46 AM
  #2888  
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Originally Posted by Lonewolf176
You should do a data log to see the temps you are getting the pops and then lower the corresponding cells 5-10% as a start.
It's sounds like his is a decel enleanment issue to me, more so that decel popping. When he said his bike pops when he's shifting gears or when he's cruising and kust lets off the throttle. That can be taken care of bu lowering your decel enleanment.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 06:56 AM
  #2889  
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Originally Posted by mtclassic
go back and read lonewolf's post on why it was done (started at 3K). He did my throttleblade cals and unbelievable difference in throttle response. I have seen a fair amount of dyno sheets starting at 3K lately right wrong or indifferent. as far as picking an arguement hmmm...........................
I'd be interested in viewing other 3000+ rpm only dyno charts. Would you mind pointing me to a few others as I really haven't seen any others til now.
 
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Old Oct 10, 2011 | 07:01 AM
  #2890  
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Originally Posted by Heatwave
It sounds like you agree that it makes no sense to drop off the performance of a bike between 2-3000rpms when dyno-tuning a bike and recording a WOT chart. Which was the only point of my original question.
Yeah, I agree. It's not my practice, but it's this guys business and if it works for him then so be it. Like I said, I misunderstood your original reply. Again, I was pointing out that the dyno sheet isn't showing cruising. (Apparently you know that). Alot of people don't. I havce read numerous posts from people that will look at a dyno sheet and say things like "man, you are way to rich, your fuel mileage must be terrible" and stuff like that.

I agree about the cruise charts but they are still worth it for a customer to view. Ensruring the bike has a relatively flat and lean AF (14) for the front cylinder and a slightly richer chart for the rear cylinder is good to know and probably just as important as the bragging sheet. For cruise, the only thing you're capturing is the AFR to ensure the bike will get reasonably good fuel economy but not so lean that it threatens the bike.
the only way to get a real accurate idea of what a bike is doing at cruising is to bring a customer into the dyno room while their bike is on it and run it at cruising speeds. When I am finished tuning a bike, I load the final MAP in and run the bike for a few miles on the dyno at all differn't speeds to verify the tune. I'll check it with differn't loads on the brake to simulate solo, 2 up and 2 up with lugguage etc. The way I set up my AFR when I am done, it gets richer as the Kpa (load) and the RPM's get higher. So if I was to do a run (say a 15% TP run) the AFR line wouldn't be flat, when you twist the grip to 20% the load (demand) goes high (so it would be richer) then the load decreases but the RPM's are going up. It wouldn't really balance out untill you let off the throttle and get to a steady speed. Kind've hard to explain. have you ever sat in on a dyno run? If you are ever up my way drop me a line and you'd be more than welcome to come in and sit in on one with me. It's quit a bit differn't than tuning with Data Runs with a vision, v-tune, smarttune etc.
 
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