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Well I finally got my air ride back installed. I relocated my compressor from under my battery box to the right side of the fender mount support. I also used real nice heavy duty fittings like the ones HTNHARD showed a couple pages back. I do have one questions. While my system was off i was running Progressive 412 HD shocks. They come with their own spacers and lock washers. For the Gabriels on the air ride I used longer grade 8 bolts poly bushings with a steel sleeve. I also just used 1/8" flat washers on either side of the shock mounts. so its bolt, washer, through shock sleeve, then washer then into threaded mount on the bike. Anyone that's running the Gabriels using a other spacers. Also, In doing some pressure testing I find that during the day (8-10 hrs) I loose about 2 psi, but during the night hours I loose about 5 psi. Bike is in the garage but it's been in the low 20's here. Can the cold air affect the air pressure in the lines. 5 psi overninght is pretty dang good and I can't seem to find a leak anywhere.
Just installed the air ride and it works perfect except for one thing. I have a 2011 Road Glide and when I raise the bike the right hand muffler hits the rear axle bolt and stops from going up any further. The problem is with the saddlebags on I cant tell when to stop before hitting the bolt. So I need a person to get down there and watch the bike as it raises until it reaches just below the axle bolt. Which really defies the whole purpose. I have 3.5" Rineharts with a slight dent now ! Any one out there have any advise ... could I have done anything wrong ?
I have the same problem. Hence why I installed an air pressure gauge. I know what PSI my target is before hitting the muffler. Additionally, even if it lightly touches the muffler, the minute you sit on it will compress the air in the shocks and lower it down some.
After a while you get to the point where you know what height you want (while sitting on it) that will clear the muffler and give you a good ride....just like you know when to shift from the feel of the motor without looking at the tach.
Thanks for the feedback man. The problem is that if the compressor stays on it will keep raising the bike until the right hand side pipe hits the axle bolt which in turn bends the pipe and might get stuck. So even if you open the dump valve the pipe and bolt are lodged or stuck there. The best solution that I've come up with is to get the door jamb interior light switch and fabricate a metal plate that fits on the axle bolt with the switch pointing downwards towards the pipe. When the bike is raised it reaches a point just before the pipe hits the axle bolt were it would toggle the switch and in return turn off the compressor just as it would turn off the interior light in your car when you close the door. Then you dont have to worry about any further upward travel and you can adjust it downwards to your liking.
You guys need to remember that once you ride the bike, every time you run over a hump in the road the shocks are going to top out (fully extend) and when that happens the muffler is going to hit the axle nut hard. The reason I removed the system from my bike a long time ago. Just trying to provide some constructive feedback before something breaks miles down the road. Look back at my posts on this subject, you might find it helpful. Happy New Year.
Ive installed dozens of these systems and never seen one bend an exhaust pipe. Yes it will slightly touch it but if it does you have it aired up far above ride height. If you used the lock washer on the bottom bolt, take it off and use a thin flat washer and some red loctite instead. You can also shim the bag support over a washer thickness if your not running extended bags and trying to keep the bag/fender gap tight.
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