I have a 2006 FLHTCUI. It recently has started surging when I open up the throttle. It seems ok at cruising speeds, but when I go to excellerate past half throttle it pulls hard then falls flat, then pulls hard then falls flat. It does this as long as I am in the throttle. When I'm just cruising at regular highway speeds it is smooth & constant. Anyone have any idea where to start, or what might be the cause of this problem?

 

Maybe a fuel injector wire is bad, just a rough guess.

 

my guess would be the MAP sensor.

any codes?

mike

 

I just installed a dynojet power commander about 4 days prior to this problem. It ran great until i ran it out of gas. since then it has ran poorly. How do I get these codes. I am new to the fuel injected bikes. All previous bikes have been carburated.

 

Maybe plugged fuel filter. You would need a Harley code reader http://www.amazon.com/Code-Harley-Da.../dp/B00362XJ9I
Or vist your local Harley. Maybe tuning issue. Master Tuner is the route i took.

 

Could be the PC map is not right for your bike and is starving for fuel at WOT. Does it feel better if you back-off the throttle a bit? What is the origin of the map you're currently running?

Here's the procedure for reading codes on an '07, which may be the same for your bike:

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

 

Shows what i know, can you do that to any of the newer bikes?

 

Same for '09 with some slight variations (see attached).

 

Check the fuel line. I had the same problem and it turned out to be a soft fuel line that would pinch off during hard accelerations while hot. Hope its the problem, good luck

 

Thanks to all that posted. Joefriday hit it though. It ended up being a clogged fuel filter. I had 40k on mine & it is apparently supposed to be changed every 25k (according to my local dealer). Changed it out & she purrs like a kitten again. Special thanks to iclick for the code retrieval info. I had no idea. I'm sure more than one of us got an education on the subject.