Bagger wobble exposed!
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 34
From: Michigan
I was looking around on my '09 today and noticed the right side doesn't have a bolt on pivot block. I read a thread on HTT where the guy was shimming the bushings in the pivot but can't see how that would be possible on mine.
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 1
From: Madison, WI
I had the True-Trak installed at Sturgis this year on my 2009 SG.
It worked as advertised. I noticed a nice improvement (no lag) in lane changes and dealing with strong crosswinds also.
So +1 for the TT.
It worked as advertised. I noticed a nice improvement (no lag) in lane changes and dealing with strong crosswinds also.
So +1 for the TT.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 132
Likes: 0
From: nashville
I don't know about this....I had a 1996 FLH that wobbled in hard turns; my 2011 FLHP doesn't misbehave unless I hit a mid corner bump at high speed while dragging the floorboards and then it's probably down more to a lack of damping than frame flex. I can take 100MPH sweepers with ease, no hands at 100; no problem. Have the riders that are having problems lowered the bike in any way? That's a sure way to mess with stability. You'll want longer shocks on the back to help. Better riding skills makes a big difference, as I have found through thousands of miles of race- track training and instruction.
Nope, the 2009+ touring bikes handle GREAT as is..
Nope, the 2009+ touring bikes handle GREAT as is..
Last edited by trispeed; Sep 1, 2012 at 09:07 PM. Reason: .
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 18
From: SE Michigan
Glide Pro
I have been almost bucked off many times due to the infamous bagger wobble. I'd like to get a brace to fix it. Problem is I have an EZ-Up center stand that's using the spot where most of the braces mount.
Can anyone recommend a brace that doesn't mount on the cross piece under the engine? ONe that works well.
I have an '08 road glide.
Can anyone recommend a brace that doesn't mount on the cross piece under the engine? ONe that works well.
I have an '08 road glide.
Just finished watching the vids for the "Smooth Rider Stabilizer" and the "True Track" one. What immediately comes to mind is that they both use the mounting holes from the oil pan as the main anchor point on the engine/tranny assy. and these holes are not designed for that kind of lateral stress or load. They also make use of the frame cross member which again is not designed to take sideways torque and twisting loads. Confirms my gut feeling that these bolt on "solutions" are not engineeringly sound and not the best solution even IF they do work somewhat. Plus your entire engine/tranny assy. is STILL hanging on 1/4" of soft rubber per side.
Last edited by Tactical111; Nov 15, 2012 at 05:14 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
[/QUOTE] Just finished watching the vids for the "Smooth Rider Stabilizer" and the "True Track" one. What immediately comes to mind is that they both use the mounting holes from the oil pan as the main anchor point on the engine/tranny assy. and these holes are not designed for that kind of lateral stress or load [/QUOTE]
Really now
.[/QUOTE] They also make use of the frame cross member which again is not designed to take sideways torque and twisting loads. Confirms my gut feeling that these bolt on "solutions" are not engineeringly sound and not the best solution even IF they do work somewhat. Plus your entire engine/tranny assy. is STILL hanging on 1/4" of soft rubber per side.[/QUOTE]
If you prefer Glide Pro why not just say so? No harm, no foul. You could also choose the Progressive Touring Link, Ride Straight, TWR etc.. which allow for a centerstand.
All of the after market systems available to ensure a safer ride are a bonus to us all, some allow the rubber mounted design to remain vibration isolated and also allow for a center stand and some transform a rubber mount system into a rigid mount system -
Really now
.[/QUOTE] They also make use of the frame cross member which again is not designed to take sideways torque and twisting loads. Confirms my gut feeling that these bolt on "solutions" are not engineeringly sound and not the best solution even IF they do work somewhat. Plus your entire engine/tranny assy. is STILL hanging on 1/4" of soft rubber per side.[/QUOTE]
If you prefer Glide Pro why not just say so? No harm, no foul. You could also choose the Progressive Touring Link, Ride Straight, TWR etc.. which allow for a centerstand.
All of the after market systems available to ensure a safer ride are a bonus to us all, some allow the rubber mounted design to remain vibration isolated and also allow for a center stand and some transform a rubber mount system into a rigid mount system -
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 416
Likes: 24
From: Dubuque, IA USA
Are you satisfied with this stabilizer? Besides not experiencing the wobble, have you noticed improvement in any other aspects of handling? I know that it is 1/2 the price of the True-Track system.
Club Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 5,323
Likes: 37
From: NJ
True track took my concerns away.
Before true track things got very scary on high speed sweepers and high speed abrupt lane changes with power.
I've had this true track on about 8k now and I can say I've never Again had a scary wobble. If I feel a wobble coming I can get rid of it by letting off throttle and it goes away instantly. I don't have to power through it and it never gets to the point of oh crap!
Also the bike is with out a doubt a tighter and has a more in control feel to it.
I'm glad I did it. It definitely worked.
Before true track things got very scary on high speed sweepers and high speed abrupt lane changes with power.
I've had this true track on about 8k now and I can say I've never Again had a scary wobble. If I feel a wobble coming I can get rid of it by letting off throttle and it goes away instantly. I don't have to power through it and it never gets to the point of oh crap!
Also the bike is with out a doubt a tighter and has a more in control feel to it.
I'm glad I did it. It definitely worked.
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Good article. Knowing that owners of the "RubberGlides" are putting in bigger, higher torque&horsepower motors, I think the design of the rubbermounts and suspension are being overstressed beyond what they were designed to do.
I owned a 1980 FLT (Shovel), and a later 1987 FLHTC (Evo). There was not much difference in the handling characteristics between the two. Fast forward to '07 when I bought my new FLHTC, there was a serious improvment in handling, though there was some wobbling around some rough curves we have out in the country. I read about the True-Track on this forum, bought and installed it. I got rid of the Dunlops in favor of Michelins and it was like riding a new bike.
The next day after installing the True-Track, a farmer dropped a couple bales of hay in front of me. I had to put it on the floorboards right, then left (dually to my right rear). The bike handled like my wifes Sportster. I don't know if it (and me) would have survived the maneuver had I not modified it with the third link. When I cranked it back left, I had a momentary loss of traction, and then it stuck. I may have raised the rear wheel.
For those of you who are new to Harley touring class bikes, please understand that they are not Ninja's, and even with modified suspensions, they still have flaws that will bite you in the *** when you least expect it.
I owned a 1980 FLT (Shovel), and a later 1987 FLHTC (Evo). There was not much difference in the handling characteristics between the two. Fast forward to '07 when I bought my new FLHTC, there was a serious improvment in handling, though there was some wobbling around some rough curves we have out in the country. I read about the True-Track on this forum, bought and installed it. I got rid of the Dunlops in favor of Michelins and it was like riding a new bike.
The next day after installing the True-Track, a farmer dropped a couple bales of hay in front of me. I had to put it on the floorboards right, then left (dually to my right rear). The bike handled like my wifes Sportster. I don't know if it (and me) would have survived the maneuver had I not modified it with the third link. When I cranked it back left, I had a momentary loss of traction, and then it stuck. I may have raised the rear wheel.
For those of you who are new to Harley touring class bikes, please understand that they are not Ninja's, and even with modified suspensions, they still have flaws that will bite you in the *** when you least expect it.
Last edited by AlCherry; Nov 18, 2012 at 08:09 AM.
Big Kahuna HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 35,506
Likes: 27
From: Calgary eh
So from what I can conclude from all this is that the glide pro firms up the engine by turning the rubber into an almost solid mount. That has to have a negative side effect. The engine would definitely transfer vibration to the rest of the bike. It would have to.
To me the True Track or the Progressive Link is the way to go. The engine remains rubber mounted so the vibration is isolated yet the link would keep it from flexing laterally when cornering.
Since I have a center stand it seems the Progressive Link is my best choice, and as a bonus for me it's half the price of the others. I like it, it seems well made and easy to install.
Any flaws in my logic or interpretation of the facts? Please advise.
To me the True Track or the Progressive Link is the way to go. The engine remains rubber mounted so the vibration is isolated yet the link would keep it from flexing laterally when cornering.
Since I have a center stand it seems the Progressive Link is my best choice, and as a bonus for me it's half the price of the others. I like it, it seems well made and easy to install.
Any flaws in my logic or interpretation of the facts? Please advise.