Cams
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
It's not really an autotune.. It will adjust fuel for a given AFR, but will NOT tune your bike. There is no substitute for a good dyno tune. Changing your cams will require a change in spark advance for optimum performance.
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 178
Likes: 2
I was going to do a video but since this was my first time doing something like this I figured I'd bypass that this time.
On the 06+, there are no cam plate bearings so the cams just slip in/out. the front cylinder cam is held in place by a small snap ring.
Only inner cam bearings. It is recommended you change the inner cam bearings when you swap the cams. You'll need a blind bearing puller/installer. I did not swap bearings. May be a bad idea on my part but I'll deal with that.
I did not use any special tools other than standard 1/2", 9/16" wrenches and sockets. Also, a couple of allen wrenches are necessary. A T-25 torx bit is necessary to remove the outer cam chain tensioner.
I did reuse my stock pushrods which meant dismantling the top end. I did not remove the heads. Only the rockers. I did have to remove the tank for clearance to remove the rods.
I did use the following threads as guides:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-write-up.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-twin-cam.html
I'm no wrench but this was pretty darn easy. Would have been easier to use adjustable pushrods. A little more money, but less work disassembling the tank and top end.
On that 2nd link, there is a photo of using binder clips to hold the lifters in place so when you pull the cam plate out the lifters don't drop into the cam chest. I did try that but just couldn't figure out how to get the clip to hook up on the lifter. There is a small piece of round stock next to the lifters and the lifters have a small flat on them. I lifted them, turned them so the flat was against the small stock and let them rest there. I did not remove them from the engine. Just lifted and twisted them. That flat corresponds to the position of the bearing at the bottom of the lifter that rides on the cam lobe.
On the 06+, there are no cam plate bearings so the cams just slip in/out. the front cylinder cam is held in place by a small snap ring.
Only inner cam bearings. It is recommended you change the inner cam bearings when you swap the cams. You'll need a blind bearing puller/installer. I did not swap bearings. May be a bad idea on my part but I'll deal with that.
I did not use any special tools other than standard 1/2", 9/16" wrenches and sockets. Also, a couple of allen wrenches are necessary. A T-25 torx bit is necessary to remove the outer cam chain tensioner.
I did reuse my stock pushrods which meant dismantling the top end. I did not remove the heads. Only the rockers. I did have to remove the tank for clearance to remove the rods.
I did use the following threads as guides:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-write-up.html
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...-twin-cam.html
I'm no wrench but this was pretty darn easy. Would have been easier to use adjustable pushrods. A little more money, but less work disassembling the tank and top end.
On that 2nd link, there is a photo of using binder clips to hold the lifters in place so when you pull the cam plate out the lifters don't drop into the cam chest. I did try that but just couldn't figure out how to get the clip to hook up on the lifter. There is a small piece of round stock next to the lifters and the lifters have a small flat on them. I lifted them, turned them so the flat was against the small stock and let them rest there. I did not remove them from the engine. Just lifted and twisted them. That flat corresponds to the position of the bearing at the bottom of the lifter that rides on the cam lobe.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,419
Likes: 1
From: Ashland Ore.
No, I haven't. I'm not sure where I'll get mine tuned after the big bore.
It's not really an autotune.. It will adjust fuel for a given AFR, but will NOT tune your bike. There is no substitute for a good dyno tune. Changing your cams will require a change in spark advance for optimum performance.
It's not really an autotune.. It will adjust fuel for a given AFR, but will NOT tune your bike. There is no substitute for a good dyno tune. Changing your cams will require a change in spark advance for optimum performance.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Thanks for the quick response. I've only got about 800 miles on my 2010 and I'm thinking about doing the same thing. (Not swapping bearings) seems like there should be very little wear on the ones in my motor now. I've built several small and big block chevrolets and I know that most manufactuers recommend that you replace cam bearings with every cam change but I know many racers that'll swap cams several times on a set of bearings. Might just be a cover all your bases overkill thing... Your bike sounds great at idle!.
This was really eye-opening when I read it. I didn't listen though. lol
http://www.bigboyzcycles.com/showthread.php?t=88
Yeah, I was pleasantly surprised when I started my bike and heard that lope. Dang near sounds like a harley now.
Thanks for the compliment.I do want to say that several members were very helpful during my swap which happened over a few days time. If I can pay it forward with the same helpful info, feel free to ask.
I will say that my top end does make more noise now. Makes me a little scared to hear it.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
No, I haven't tried contacting them. It's tough for them to really do any tuning over the phone which is what they would have to do because we're not local to each other.
I'm going to seek out some local tuners and by 'local' I mean within a 2hr drive or so.
Here's my options:
Thunder Tower HD - Columbia, SC (90min drive)
Tman Performance - Kernersville, NC (2hrs)
Dougs HD - Florence, SC (1hr)
Charlotte HD - Charlotte, NC (2hrs)
Tilley's HD - Statesville, NC (2.5hrs) - remember hearing good things bout them.
I have spoken with the proprietor of Ben's V-Twins (indy) in Charlotte, NC last year about doing a cam swap (was price shopping). He said there was a guy in the area with a mobile dyno and he was good and prices fair. I need to contact Ben's V-Twins for contact info.
Also, there is some tuner in Myrtle Beach who seems to be quite reputable.
http://www.myrtlebeachperformance.com/index.html
I've never heard of the guy but worth a shot with at least getting some info from him as far as pricing goes.
I also suspect Tman Perf. would be expensive considering his stage 1 heads went from $650 last year to $810 this year. A phone call/price inquiry is free.
I'm going to seek out some local tuners and by 'local' I mean within a 2hr drive or so.
Here's my options:
Thunder Tower HD - Columbia, SC (90min drive)
Tman Performance - Kernersville, NC (2hrs)
Dougs HD - Florence, SC (1hr)
Charlotte HD - Charlotte, NC (2hrs)
Tilley's HD - Statesville, NC (2.5hrs) - remember hearing good things bout them.
I have spoken with the proprietor of Ben's V-Twins (indy) in Charlotte, NC last year about doing a cam swap (was price shopping). He said there was a guy in the area with a mobile dyno and he was good and prices fair. I need to contact Ben's V-Twins for contact info.
Also, there is some tuner in Myrtle Beach who seems to be quite reputable.
http://www.myrtlebeachperformance.com/index.html
I've never heard of the guy but worth a shot with at least getting some info from him as far as pricing goes.
I also suspect Tman Perf. would be expensive considering his stage 1 heads went from $650 last year to $810 this year. A phone call/price inquiry is free.
Thanks for picking up and the assist this afternoon ... I went with the Royal Purple High Performance Power Steering fluid ... thing is stiff .... which is good ....
Got everything buttoned back up and would be a happy camper about now were it not for the dent in my tank
....Oh well .... c'est la vie
R/
'Chop
Last edited by SURFOR Chop; May 29, 2010 at 10:55 PM.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
Chop, glad to hear you got it back up and running. I figured it would be stiff. Might be a cool idea to see if anyone on the forum uses anything other than 'fork oil', just for future reference.
Yeah, T-man does have a good rep. I've been wanting to ride up to his shop for months now. I just can't seem to make it happen. 2hrs is a standard commute for me anywhere I go so it's not that.
Yeah, T-man does have a good rep. I've been wanting to ride up to his shop for months now. I just can't seem to make it happen.
2hrs is a standard commute for me anywhere I go so it's not that.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,120
Likes: 192
From: Lakeland, FL
not a bad idea at all. I have all the parts I need for the swap. I'm just waiting on the heads, now. Bean says I might have them by the end of the week.