Ptag

Unplug the connector at the throttle body behind the air cleaner check for corrosion in the plug. clean connections and put some dielectric grease in the plug. The connection can get corroded and results match your symptoms.

 

Originally Posted by 04ctd View Post

here's a SOTP tuning heat question:

auto tuned it alot, have richened it up globally & low end to control heat (get stuck duck walking in traffic alot in mornings)

all temps are off the PV, from the ECM & from Navi display for weather temp

idle now: ~225 degrees when ~85 degrees outside, sitting still.

highway: ~200 degrees when 85~90 in afternooon, 70~80mph

long trip: ~245 degrees, when ~103 degrees outside, 85+mph


why would it be hotter at speed? too lean at that RPM?

Also you're running at higher ambient temperature (103 vice 85) . A few things happen. The heat transfer from the engine to the air is dependent on the difference in temperatures, so same heat coming out of the engine, but with higher temperature outside, the engine temperature will be higher (approximately the same amount as the ambient temperature change). Next the ambient temperature increase will make the air "thinner" so less mass of air across the engine - shouldn't make too much difference, but its still there.

Last thing I can think of is the IAT is seeing a higher temperature (103 + a bit of heat from the engine too, and since the engine is hotter, that bit is a bit more). That means the ECM would be leaning it out a bit because there is "thinner" air (less dense) which means less oxygen. I know I've read discussions of moving the IAT sensor to the air cleaner, but mostly because the IAT sees some really high temps at idle, which leans the mix, resulting in higher temperatures, which transfers to the IAT, which sees higher temperature and leans the mix and results in higher temperatures... you get the idea, though if your running closed loop, the leaning should be negated. But you did say you richened it up globally, so maybe your in open loop?.

You might try logging or watching your O2 voltages to see if at the higher outside temps and higher RPMs you're running rich, at stoich, or lean to test the whole IAT idea . Though if you're already running open loop and rich, you might not be able to see if you're running a little rich or as rich as you set the maps (e.g. 14.3 instead of 13.5 (example target)).

So higher RPM (more internal heat made), higher outside temperature (higher engine temperature to make the same temperature difference for the same heat load), "thinner" air (less cooling capacity (really less mass of air flowing)), and maybe a little leaner mix (more net internal heat - due to less "fuel cooling").

Just some educated guesses...

 

I think I have a similar situation going on although it with autotune not target tune. After the first few autotune runs, the 2000 RPM area on both the front and rear VE's maxes out at 127.5 and I choose to cap. I did as fuelmoto suggested in the above post and in the autotune settings selected to not tune under 30 kpa and started over autotuning from my base map. I am still maxing out the VE's in the 200 RPM range and I'm not sure what the next step is. If anybody has any ideas please let me know. Also, if somebody will tell me how to post screenshots from winpv, I can post up my autotune results.

Thanks

 

Yookdew

Post up a data log and the tune and lets see what the bike is doing. Generally, you need to tell the SW that your motor is larger than it thinks the motor is now. That will increase the amount of fuel at the injector.

If you are into math and EFI, here is the general fueling formula for fueling in all EFI systems, you need to mess with the first term, "injector size constant".

http://www.nbs-stl.com/MLVDemo/012%2...ngEquation.PNG

Andy

 

Attached are the front and rear VE tables after doing 7 autotune runs.

The bike I am tuning is a 2005 softail deuce with a Kuryaken air cleaner, V&H Big Radius 2 into 2 pipes with big city thunder baffles, and Andrews 21 cams. I am using the Powervision with the wideband O2 sensors.

Fuelmoto didn't have a base map for this set up so I emailed Dynojet and they provided one. I don't know if this matters but the map Dynojet provided was from a Dyna instead of a Softail. I know the Dyna motors aren't balanced but I'm not sure of that makes a difference for tuning or not.

Is a datalog made when I run an autotune or is that something seperate that I need to run? I should be able to get out on the bike tomorrow so I could run a datalog and upload it here.

Also let me know if you need any more info.

Thanks for the help.




Front VE





Rear VE

 

I need a data log that has

MAP
RPM
PW front and rear
O2 sensor volts front and rear
TPS
AFF front and rear
CLI front and rear
Spark retard front and rear
VSS

It is set up from the PV Logging fields screen

Then log for about 45 min ride from the backroads, not just highway

Andy

 

Looks like a bunch of exhaust reversion.Like to see a data log also.

 

You're really chasing a non-issue anyway, you're rarely, if ever, at actual 0% throttle, especially at 1750 or 2000 rpm, and even if you were it most likely won't cause any sort of rideability issue. I haven't played with throttle percentages lately, I'm not sure you can even get to an actual 0% throttle reading??

I'd agree that if it is a true reading it's most likely caused by reversion in those short pipes.

 

On a non technical note. I ordered my PV from Fuel Moto and should get it in a few days. They said that the handlebar mount won't work on my 1 1/4 Burly apes. Does anyone have a source for a mount that will work on those thicker bars? Thanks.

 

Send this photo to Fuel Moto and ask them where you can get the one similar to this that they used to sell with the power vision. It's a nice piece and will fit the bigger bars.