Please rescan at a higher resolution, these old eyes aren't what they use to be.

 

I have a couple dyno sheets to share. here is a little background so the sheets below make sense.

Spring 2012 I did a big bore kit, etc. and had bike dyno'd with Ed at Dyno Difference in Dallas. Nice numbers - 90.9 hp and 103.5 ft lb (SAE). Green line on Sheet 1.

Summer 2012 I changed exhaust (went from V&H Big Radius 2-1 to Bassani pro-streets 2-2) and changed SE air filter for Zippers Maxflow filter. Had bike tuned at a shop near Houston, as I could not make the 5 - 6 hour trip to Dallas at the time. At first, I was pleased with numbers as I did not lose as much performance as I expected going from 2-1 pipe to short 2-2. Numbers were 94.3 hp and 97.9 ft lb, but then I realized these were corrected for STD and numbers were not as strong as I originally thought (Sheet2). I was not real happy with the way the bike ran - hard starts, real choppy at parking lot speeds, smelled rich, and power felt soft on low end. Bike did run good at highway speeds where I ride the most so I kept riding until I saved up money for another tune.

Last week I went back to Dyno Difference for another tune - no other changes since summer tune. Ed always starts by checking exhaust, plugs, wires, etc to make sure he is going to get the best tune possible. My exhaust was loose and was corrected. He also changed plugs. He then ran a baseline to see how bike was runnign from the tune I had done during the summer. SAE numbers were 82.1 hp and 88.2 ft lb (Red line on Sheet 1). If you ever wonder how much difference there is between SAE and STD numbers, this may give you an idea. Ed then retuned the bike over the next several hours while I waited, observed, and asked any questions I might have). Blue line on Sheet 1 is last tune with 96.1 hp and 102 ft lb.

2-2 pipes definitely hit later in the RPM's versus the 2-1, and give up a little torque for a little more hp. Lost some torque in the 2700 - 4200 range, but gained torque and hp above that. I would love to get rid of the low end torque dip I have right now, but not in a big hurry to replace current pipes and retune. If anyone has other ideas that might be causing torque dip other than exhaust, please share. I still have stock injectors and not not sure how much gains can be made with replacing those with higher flow injectors. As with all the sheets posted on this thread, the numbers only reflect WOT and power curves may not be such drastic change from pipe to pipe at partial throttle positions where we normally ride. I did get a pretty long ride in coming home from Dallas, but it was bumper to bumper the entire way, so I did not get much chance to throttle response in many situations. The bike did feel strong when I left his shop making my way to the interstate.

Good tuners that spend adequate time to dial in bike correctly are hard to find, but the power gains and driveability are worth it. Compare blue and red lines in Sheet 1 - same setup.

 

yno's How much are the dyno's coing for at a HD dealership? Is is wise to first do the Stage 1 download, then the dyno? Or does it matter. I have a stock 2006 Heritage. Any advantage to doing both, one, or none?

 

Are U using a tuner, if so what is it.??

downloads are a waste of money if u have most any good tuner if U plant to go with a good dyno.

With all the self tuning ones out now U really shouldn't need either if U have one of them.



.

 

I'm thinking about putting cams in my 2012 Heritage that already has V&H big shot staggered and a big sucker.
I've seen the SE251 cams recomended on here, but in looking at the 2013 Harley catalog the SE251 cams are not listed. I guess they quit selling them? Is there one of the current SE cams that is a good replacement for the 251?

 

Thinking of trying the following setup; S&S 97" Big Bore kit, S&S 551 Gear Drive Cams, Replace fuel control Module (undecided), and adjustable push rods. Trying to give the engine a little more jump, rode to Laconia this year with a bunch of guys that had 103's and 6 spped transmission. My 04 Heritage was working hard compared to those guys. Anyone tried replacing front Transmission pulley for a 34T???

 

Thinking of trying the following setup; S&S 97" Big Bore kit, S&S 551 Gear Drive Cams, Replace fuel control Module (undecided), and adjustable push rods. Trying to give the engine a little more jump, rode to Laconia this year with a bunch of guys that had 103's and 6 spped transmission. My 04 Heritage was working hard compared to those guys. Anyone tried replacing front Transmission pulley for a 34T???

 

OK, here goes
2013 Heritage FLSTC. HD Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner, SERT, V&H Big Shots Long.
Bought new,rode home, 300 miles later Stage 1 came in, Dealer installed, rode 700 more miles, went in for 1000 mi service, had dyno tuned.
Don't have a clue exactly what it means, but rides quickly thoughout gears and have been getting about 41mpg.
What am I looking at here???

 

The first sheet (the graph), is you pre-tune dyno graph. I don't know why you don't have a post-tune dyno graph. The second sheet shows you pre and post tune numbers. Your numbers with a 103b and a stage one are within a couple hp and tq of my 103b with a stage one.

 

So this will be my first REAL post beside the noob area, I just installed V&H 2 into 2 big radius, along with Kuryakyn hypercharger. Now , do I get it remapped by my dealer , do i get a dyno done(i need to goto a different dealer), or should i just get the fuelpak from V&H. I most likely wont be doing any other mods to the intake or exhaust.

thanks in advance .

Just got an email from the dealer , he said he would install a Screamin' Eagle Race Tuner for 459.00/.05 hr labour to get her running the way she should .
any thoughts