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They have an illuminated 2" gauge and a non illuminated 1.5" gauge. Now, to figure out where to put it. I'd hate to drill into inner fairing incase I decide later on to remove it. But I think I'd really like something I can see so I can play with the pressures and find the "sweet spot"
Last edited by customsoftail200; May 21, 2012 at 02:20 PM.
Finally got my system completely installed over the weekend and got to put about 50 miles on it. So far, my jury is out on if it will stay, go or change to some other shock configuration.
I think my biggest issue is the shock length. I am 240# and the wifey is 110#. With just me in the seat, nothing in the tour pack or bags, the shocks don't even begin to move until about 100 psi in them. Moving around under power with it slammed, I can tell the belt geometry is changed to a point where it's slack or not seating properly. Getting to a point where the belt is happy and it doesn't bottom out in normal riding takes about 125 psi.
At that pressure and height the ride is a little harsh but not bad for me, I like a stiff suspension. However, on a couple of bridges with sharp rises and drops, the shocks are whacking my Monster Ovals quite a bit.
Got a bit more playing to do before I decide on keeping these shocks or moving to another type.
Does anyone have experience with the Arnott Bilsteins and / or Progressive Air Draggers?
Should you not be happy with AIR - seriously consider Hydraulic - You wont bottom out and you never have to add AIR pressure up or down to achieve what you are looking for. 240 + Rider - no problem whatsoever.
Should you not be happy with AIR - seriously consider Hydraulic - You wont bottom out and you never have to add AIR pressure up or down to achieve what you are looking for. 240 + Rider - no problem whatsoever.
Are standard shocks not hydraulic!? Besides the original intention behind air ride is to slam it on the ground when you park
The factory shocks are AIR, Hydraulic does not operate with AIR, it automatically adjusts based on speed, or manual override on the switch housing. SO if you want to dump or drop your suspension for parking - this system drops it a full 2.5 inches for parking. Watch this video here for the entire picture - you give up nothing and gain so much more. Full Ride height when you get above 13 mph - just way too cool!
Should you not be happy with AIR - seriously consider Hydraulic - You wont bottom out and you never have to add AIR pressure up or down to achieve what you are looking for. 240 + Rider - no problem whatsoever.
Oh I would love to try the active hydraulic, seen similiar technology on some very high end race vehicles where suspension reaction is measured in milliseconds. However, I don't have that kind of $$$ to spend!
Now if you ever want a '10 Ultra test vehicle in southeast Georgia, look me up!
Latest update, I made some limiting straps out of 2" wide Ancra lifting web and custom aluminum brackets. Webbing has a tensil break strength of > 25k lbs. so I'm not worried about breaking it. Limits upward travel to the same distance as the 12" Harley shocks.
Another ride later today and I'll see how it does.
I just got done with air rife install which I mounted compressor on top of radio. System works great but now my don't radio does not work did rest on radio and fuse is good. I turn radio on and it shuts off right away. Any ideas?
Originally Posted by funnythebunny
I've got a '10 with ABS; I mounted my compressor and dump valve on top of the radio behind the fairing. I used automotive grade 3M molding tape, which absorbs all the vibrations it makes.
Here's a pic of the compressor mounted. The dump valve (not pictured) is mounted also on top of the radio in the empty area.
PS: I too would like to take apart a set of shocks to see how to limit its length... I'll keep an eye on this thread.
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