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Ignition/Tuner/ECM/Fuel InjectionNeed advice on ignition issues? Questions about a tuner? Have questions about a EFI calibration or Fuel Injection? Tips on Engine Diagnostics, how to get codes, and what they mean. Find your answers here.
So, I have noticed that during my AT runs, the rear VE table is MUCH higher than the front...20-30 points higher in many places. This got me to thinking...The other day I released the rear bracket on the muffler, under the saddlebag, and the pipe and muffler rotated to the ground...I didnt think about it at the time. But I am wondering if the AT is wanting to richen up the rear so much because I have an exhaust leak at that connector? I dont hear anything, or see any soot or smoke, but could it be pulling air with reversion and leaning that rear cylinder out? My guess is yes.....
Thanks
Glen
FWIW on my bike:
At idle front and rear VEs are very similar.
Just off idle, my rear VE is about 20 points higher than the front.
Cruising range back to very similar.
so i got a few AT runs in last night. the first AT it scaled CI up to 102.7. the second AT didn't ask me for a scale/cap so i saved it and am running that for now. it ran good on the way to work this morning. i did only focus on 0-80% tp and idle to 4000k since im only running AT basic. is there anything i can do now to help dial it in more and what would a typical stage 1 96" afr table look like? thanks
Are you saying closed loop in the whole map, or just in the cruising areas?
Glen
Just the cruising areas. That's the range you spend probably around 90-95% of you time in. Depending on the bike I usually set my AFR tables close to this.
Here is a plot showing where the bike is operating in closed loop. Red dots indicate closed loop. Blue is open loop. The big mass of dots indicated where this rider spends most of his riding time.
On the left is Map Based tuning and on the right is what TPS based tuning would look like.
This rider spends most of his riding below about 2500 RPM and below 12 pct throttle and below about 60 KPA. Guess where his tuner should spend most of his effort tuning this bike based on how this rider uses his bike.
This rider rides his bike very different. In this shot, color indicates Hits.
Just the cruising areas. That's the range you spend probably around 90-95% of you time in. Depending on the bike I usually set my AFR tables close to this.
Thanks for clarifying. Thats actually what I figured...
So I have been doing AT runs to determine if the high VE's in the low TPxRPM ranges were some sort of an anomaly and its becoming very obvious that the numbers I had were correct. Slowly but surely, the AT has adjusted my VE's very close to what they were before. Last AT run netted avg -1% to 3% change, and now my rear VE's are back to what they were before... (See image). Would you think this is indicative of an exhaust leak, or just the nature of the critter?
I am posting a pic of my AFR and a pic of my VE's, just for comparison.
Thanks
Glen
Thanks for clarifying. Thats actually what I figured...
So I have been doing AT runs to determine if the high VE's in the low TPxRPM ranges were some sort of an anomaly and its becoming very obvious that the numbers I had were correct. Slowly but surely, the AT has adjusted my VE's very close to what they were before. Last AT run netted avg -1% to 3% change, and now my rear VE's are back to what they were before... (See image). Would you think this is indicative of an exhaust leak, or just the nature of the critter?
I am posting a pic of my AFR and a pic of my VE's, just for comparison.
Thanks
Glen
I guess I could look at O2 voltage or something.. what would you suggest other than buying new ones..? Its too bad these are NB o2's. They are 18MM though..LOL..
GLen
I guess I could look at O2 voltage or something.. what would you suggest other than buying new ones..? Its too bad these are NB o2's. They are 18MM though..LOL..
GLen
It's rare for an o2 sensor to go bad. By bad sampling I mean o2 sensor placement. Some manufacturers have some bad placements and it can give bad readings
It's rare for an o2 sensor to go bad. By bad sampling I mean o2 sensor placement. Some manufacturers have some bad placements and it can give bad readings
Hmm...I did install the J-Pipe Conversion kit from Fulsac...and the o2 sensor bung is in this J-pipe..I wonder if that is the culprit...
Glen
Ok fellas I have a nagging issue. The bike runs great but hot starts have a hiccup. Starts super smooth cold but when I Park, run in to grab a soda or something quick, come back out and it's crank crank crank - hiccup - crank and fire. It sounds terrible. Is there a cranking fuel or warm up fuel adjustment to help with this?
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