Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF): 2006 FXSTSI, Stage II (cams). SAE corrected: 81.53 HP, 89.41 TQ

Attachments:
Baseline TC88 #’s from SE catalog for ref
Dyno run sheet
Cam spec info

My objective was a hard pulling streetable hot rod. I like power off the line and hard acceleration. Top end HP is nice but I am rarely in a position to wind the bike out past 90 MPH for very long. Spent a lot of time talking with Ralph (aka Hogmaster) http://www.cyrilhuzeblog.com/2009/06...plug-and-ride/ . Started talking to him about performance mods and cams came up. He has come up with his own custom cam grinds. He suggested his .520, saying it sounded like the right cam for the riding I do.

Here’s the details of the important stuff: An otherwise stock TC88B plus…Forcewinder AC, Hooker Troublemaker Radius 2-2 (a.k.a. VH Big Radius wanna-be’s), SE 25 degree injectors, SE plugs and wires, HD heavy duty clutch spring, RACE .520 cams, SE adjustable pushrods, and the whole hydraulic tensioner conversion and oil pump assembly using OEM 07+ parts. A SERT was used for tuning although an Accel SLM is in the mail. Reports are that the numbers may be a little better with the SLM. The SERT is analog, SLM is digital, SERT is open loop, SLM is closed loop with front O2 sensor….yadda, yadda….stuff over my head…..we’ll see when I get it and install it.

Bike had 20K miles on it when the cams went in. Going in for cams, I figured it was a good time to convert to hydraulic tensioners and upgrade the oil pump. Typically your only option is the SE hydro cam chain upgrade kit. However, it only converts the outer chain and it’s expensive at $430 for the kit plus another $18 for the required spacer kit. I went a different route. The cams I used have the sprocket teeth cut to fit the 07+ chain. So I bought OEM parts #’s for the entire support plate, oil pump, and tensioner assembly. This saved me money over the SE kit plus it replaces both cam chains to the newer style. Note though that the downside is that cams must be custom ground. TC88 cams come with old cam chain sprocket teeth and .870 diameter shafts. 07+ TC96 cams come with newer chain sprocket teeth and 1” diameter shafts. I needed new tooth pattern but .870 diameter shafts which is how these cams were made. All installation work was done by me. Dyno work was done by Dyno Dave at Colonial HD in Richmond, VA.

I have to admit being a little disappointed by the numbers at first. I imagined or hoped they’d be higher. But after looking at the stock TC88 curves in the SE catalog and seeing average numbers from other folks with stock TC88’s, it’s not so bad. My disappointment was fueled first by the fact that HD likes to advertise crank HP so used to seeing higher numbers for stock engines. That was compounded by all the claims from intake and exhaust manufacturers who suggest 10-20 HP/TQ gains with a Stage I. My assumption was that cams would provide an even bigger gain if a simple Stage I could boost you 10-20 points. And then, of course, let’s not discount the fact that I had my Dyno run using SAE correction. On face value, most STD runs of comparable setups are going to yield higher numbers. Factor in other variables like the tuner guy himself, atmospherics, luck, etc, and I realize I am over thinking this. Once I got my head straight and realistically considered all those elements I came to the conclusion that my numbers are pretty much in line with what you would expect for the setup.

Then I looked at the curves with more scrutiny and felt even better. Much much better. The stock TC88 TQ curve from the SE catalog looks like it peaks around 3500 and then steadily dips down until redline. Its nice to brag about peak numbers but what really matters is how long you can make effective use of that power. The stock cams, and several other Dyno results you see show nice peaks but they are exactly that. They hit the top and immediately start to drop. Conversely, my new cams spin up fast, hit their peak right about 3000, and don’t begin to dip until about 4600. And from 4600 out to 6000 the TQ still stays above the stock peak value. I don’t have a torque curve, I have a torque shelf!

The heavy duty clutch spring came into play during the dyno runs. Tuner called to say clutch was slipping on hard acceleration. While I admit wishing the stock clutch had a quicker and harder bite, I never had an issue with slippage prior to installing these cams. Takeaway: Lotta torque available all the way through the RPM range. Seems to have a respectable HP increase as well.

Butt dyno results agree with the printout. Bike pulls pretty hard off the line and keeps pulling. Power is smooth, consistent, and predictable. There are no flat spots or dips. 5th gear roll on passes are possible without needing to downshift. So far I have run out of road before I have run out of power.

I may consider a different exhaust, some head porting, or more in the future. Maybe Santa will bring me an RB Racing LSR 2-1. I mention that just in case he reads these forums. For now, this setup is good to go. I have extra power, didn’t have to spend a lot of money, was able to do all the work myself, and didn’t need to get into major engine renovations. Often you hear people say you can have TQ or HP but not both, or that you must sacrifice one for the other. Based on the numbers and the way the bike runs, I feel like I got exactly what I wanted and did not have to compromise anything.

I welcome feedback and comments. Finally, I hope this is useful to anyone who may looking for extra TQ without breaking the bank and who may be unsure what cam to select.

For those interested in this cam setup, send a PM and I can give you specific part numbers for the hydro conversion parts as well as assist with getting you cams. I don't want to turn this into a sales pitch; not my intent. But the obvious outcome from a lot of these setups and dyno numbers is folks saying they want to do the same thing. I am more than willing to help out wherever I can.

 

Well I had hopes of over 80HP, but I am happy with the TQ numbers.

78.72 HP and 95.15 TQ.

Bike feels/sounds like a beast now.

Curves seem a little different than some I have seen.

Is the air fuel ratio good?

Thanks for any feed back.

http://i233.photobucket.com/albums/e...g?t=1286658068

 

See Below:

 

Here is some professional Dyno Tuning at its best. The guys at Godspeed Oakland really did a great job assessing what my 2003 Heritage needed to suit the type of riding I wanted to do. My riding could consist of road trips cruising to Yosemite or tearing the local bay area streets up with a torqeuy zest. The shop gave suggested I go with the following combination 98ci big bore, New pistons, Woods TW6 Cams, Aim clutch and a Mikuni 42 + high torque 1.4kW starter and Dyno2000 electronic ignition. I already had a Stage 1 air cleaner with Thunderheaders.

Stock FLSTC’s with the 88ci are in the 65hp area. With all the work mentioned, the shop had my bike at 88.75 HP with 103.10 Lbs torque. The bike rattled at 2 grand so dyno tuning the new carb was in order.

Post Tuning… 93.76 Hp with 109.95 lbs torque. That’s a huge difference with just tuning! No rattling smooth at all RPM’s 1K through 4K at least…haven’t opened it all up yet. The bike sounds like a deep Ferrari, great sound and the acceleration… immense.
This is exactly how I though a Harley should feel from the get go, it was blah stock.
I cant imagine how much power those really built up bikes have… I got the bike back late Saturday night (yes they have late pick ups) and spend Sunday finding out what she could do. Was grinning from ear to ear yesterday! Did I mention this motor shop also had a full bar, a tattoo artist, pool table and breakfast + Go-Go Dancers?

Here are my stinkin papers!



Post Tuning Nubers:

 

Getting my bike Dynoed today at the Cycle Doctor in Costa Mesa. I feel like a kid on Christmas. C'mon 8:30. I'll post results when I return with the Dyno sheet.

Drew

 

We are excited too hear to so please post...

 

I am finally back. It took like what seemed forever and i was up at the crack of dawn ready to roll out. The final numbers are simply that...numbers.
They are 84HP and 95TQ. I spent a long time talking with Geoff Gaites (Cycle Doctor) about the meaning of numbers and their relevance regarding a Dyno tune. As far as he is concerned nubmers mean practically nothing. Any good tuner can manipulate the nubmers so they come out higher to please the customer. He continued on to explain exactly what he does when he tunes a bike. He uses 02 sensors as opposed to a copper sniffer in the exhaust. It is much more accurate and adjustments can be fine tuned much better.

He spent 3 hours tuning my ride, over and over and over again until he was satisfied that he had it tuned the best he possibly could. Intially, my AFR was all over the place. He spent at least an hour just on smoothing the AFR. There was a lot fo discussion regarding parts of teh process that were over my head, so I will just say this....

The bike runs like a top! This thing will surely smoke many bikes out there now.
The bike runs so smooth and the torque is absolutely immediate all the way through the band. I have not burned enough gas yet to figure out my mileage, but I am sure that it is better now than it was before as I told Geoff I wanted a streetable tune.

I am very satisfied with my Cycle Doctor experience and with the tune I got. I learned that my older PCIIIR is not as versatile as the PCIII USB, as the rear cylinder cannot be tuned like the front one with my PC, but the fatcat kept things pretty much the same which is a good thing.

Geoff also agrees that the best tuner out there is the TTS with a good Dyno tune. I hioghly recommend having your bike Dynoed by Geoff as he takes his time and tunes it right, over and over until it is perfect. Tell him I sent you!





Thanks!

Drew

 

 

With all due respect, the only people who would say that "numbers mean practically nothing" after paying quite a bit of money for a dyno tune are people who aren't that happy with their numbers. Of course, seat-of-the-pants road performance is the true test of a good tune and you seem to have achieved the performance you want, which is a good thing. That said, I'm getting more horsepower out of my 88 c.i. engine (87 hp - see post #343) after two Dyno Dave tunes than you're getting out of your higher displacement engine, though less torque, which is basically attributable to the displacement differential. Again, I'm very happy for you that you feel you got your money's worth, but speaking for myself you've saved me a long ride down the 405 freeway and at least $400 (which I will probably spend with you anyway!).

 

Drew,
What were your numbers before the big bore kit? Would you mind posting the before dyno sheet?