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Another question... I have just bought a bug spoiler for my BO, do i need to drill holes to keep air flow to the regulator or does it not get that hot ??
There is a reason why the voltage regulator has those cooling ribs and why it is mounted in this position, exposed to the max air stream.
I have no idea how hot it gets but most of the chin spoilers sold, especially the OEM ones are open on the front. Also all people I know who installed an aftermarket chin spoiler that came closed on the front made sure they cut venting holes into the front. Call it either best practice or common sense
Another hint....it may be a good idea to drill a small hole into the bottom near the front tip to allow water to better drain from the inside.
The site says these don't fit the BO but having already been inside my 2014 BO forks, I respectfully disagree.
For the look you're after, these plus a 3" tank lift will give you that look IMHO.
Here is a pic of my ride with the 3" lift but without the extensions:
OK, here is an update for posts concerning installation of fork extensions beginning with post 5490:
I've put em in and, owing to our somewhat wintery spring up here had a chance to ride the result for roughly 2 hours. Here's a quick pic of my 2014 BO with extensions in:
Note the juffy stand footpad which is necessary along with the fork extensions.
"IF", you've already done LA Dog's Ricor / Racetech front fork mods, installing these is very simple indeed:
INSTALLATION:
1. "Support" bike on Torrins style jack. Slather fork uppers with WD 40. Remove front brake calipers from lower fork and support away from wheel.
2. Loosen upper pinch bolts and fork cap.
3. Loosen lower pinch bolts allowing front wheel to rest on deck.
4. Gently jack bike allowing forks to drop as you go till caps are just over 3" below the top tree.
5. Unscrew fork caps.
6. Place supplied washer on top of existing spacer tube (hold if necessary).
7. Screw steel extension into place using strap wrench "IF" necessary.
8. Drop supplied additional spacer tube into place on top of washer.
9. LIFT FRONT WHEEL BY HAND till upper tube is in position level with top of upper tree. Then nip lower pinch clamps to hold tubes in place. I did this myself with wheel between my knees lifted by one hand and torx/ratchet in the other. It was surprisingly easy but by all means get help if you're so inclined.
10. With extended forks in position, make minor adjustments then snug LOWER pinch clamps securely and torque em to spec.
11. Install fork caps and nip em up securely, (torque to spec IF you're so inclined).
12. Torque upper pinch clamps and reinstall brake calipers.
PLEASE NOTE: IF YOU HAVE NOT ALREADY DONE LA DOG"S SUSPENSION MODS, DON"T FOLLOW MY PROCEDURE. DO A COMPLETE FRONT FORK REMOVAL. THE OEM SPRING PRE-LOAD WILL BE TOO MUCH TO MANAGE WITH FORKS IN SITU.
Now you need to install this on your hardened steel jiffy stand foot:
I removed the stand with the bike still on the jack, of course, then marked the stand hole positions with a punch, then drilled successively bigger holes destroying 4 titanium bits in the process. I have a vice which adjusts (swivels) horizontally and vertically which I found VERY handy for this process.
Anyhow, drill the stand, install the shoe using loctite, then reinstall the stand and you're done.
This short procedural assumes you have a manual which outlines torque values and how your stand is installed etc.
You're done !
HANDLING: Not an issue. There's a barely discernible difference but zero handling issues and your pegs are now nicely raised above the deck. At stop lights your nose is now 1 1/2" higher as you idle beside that Ricer. .
INTEGRITY: What can I say ? You either recognize the quality of the part and its installation as inherently sound or you don't. I do, but thats no help to you. This extension is made of steel, not aluminum as some are, and the internal joint is face on face held securely by threads which match your fork tubes. This is structurally somewhat more akin to a flange type joint than simply 2 pieces of round stock, "pipe", threaded together. The external seam is about 1" below the bottom of the top tree and the joint is firmly held from flexion or unscrewing by being located between the top and bottom tree pinch clamps. Beyond that, time will tell and I'll be a happy Guinea Pig !
I've tried to be thorough but thats no guarantee I've succeeded so please do question anything that seems sketchy to you or which just doesn't make sense. This is a job which is easier to do than to write about .
I got the extensions from Dennis Kirk for $116. Their site says the extensions don't fit your Breakout but, as you can see, they do.
Happy Riding !!
Last edited by HKMark23; Apr 20, 2017 at 04:17 PM.
Well, I finally got the design finished (somewhat) and the Kuryakyn bag mounted. It's not perfect (side plate design could use a tweak on one hole location), but it's solid as a rock as-is.
This project quickly snowballed into a "10 hot dogs vs. 8 buns" situation. I originally only intended to have 2 plates made up (in case I wanted/needed to change the design...), but the cost for 2 plates or 12 plates was the same, so I was going for 12 plates. The aluminum tubes are only sold in 12' sticks, and to get enough for the 12 plates would have several feet left over...so I had them cut up 2 sticks. 2 sticks cut would leave extra for more plates, so I had them cut a total of 22 plates...lol.
Like I mentioned, it's solid and works well, but I can't put a cross tube in the rearmost hole because it hits the risers; I'd need to move the bag forward ~1" to get one in there. Right now (shown in the pics), the bag is mounted to the middle and forward cross tubes with the 4 straps that come with the bag. I think I'll just cut the rear portion of the side plates off and leave it at that (the bag doesn't even touch that part of the side plates because it's wedged against the riser for support...that part I actually planned).
I tested it out today by hauling a week's worth of breakfast/lunch groceries to work...worked like a champ. It even has a side benefit of blocking a good deal of wind; something I hadn't anticipated. I also gave a little room above the stock headlamp in case I ever upgrade to a larger diameter headlight in the future.
If anybody's interested, I've got a few extra sets, but keep in mind that you won't be able to mount a cross tube in the rearmost position (unless you fashion up some sort of bent/offset tube). I'm just going to cut mine off and radius the end on a belt sander. Also, these parts are in the raw; you'd need to polish/chrome/powdercoat them yourself.
-WRM
Last edited by WRMorrison; Apr 20, 2017 at 07:33 AM.
There is a reason why the voltage regulator has those cooling ribs and why it is mounted in this position, exposed to the max air stream.
I have no idea how hot it gets but most of the chin spoilers sold, especially the OEM ones are open on the front. Also all people I know who installed an aftermarket chin spoiler that came closed on the front made sure they cut venting holes into the front. Call it either best practice or common sense
Another hint....it may be a good idea to drill a small hole into the bottom near the front tip to allow water to better drain from the inside.
Thankyou Ray that makes perfect sense, I'll cut a vent and mesh it then just to be on the safe side. Appreciate your input 👍👍
Well, I finally got the design finished (somewhat) and the Kuryakyn bag mounted. It's not perfect (side plate design could use a tweak on one hole location), but it's solid as a rock as-is.
This project quickly snowballed into a "10 hot dogs vs. 8 buns" situation. I originally only intended to have 2 plates made up (in case I wanted/needed to change the design...), but the cost for 2 plates or 12 plates was the same, so I was going for 12 plates. The aluminum tubes are only sold in 12' sticks, and to get enough for the 12 plates would have several feet left over...so I had them cut up 2 sticks. 2 sticks cut would leave extra for more plates, so I had them cut a total of 22 plates...lol.
Like I mentioned, it's solid and works well, but I can't put a cross tube in the rearmost hole because it hits the risers; I'd need to move the bag forward ~1" to get one in there. Right now (shown in the pics), the bag is mounted to the middle and forward cross tubes with the 4 straps that come with the bag. I think I'll just cut the rear portion of the side plates off and leave it at that (the bag doesn't even touch that part of the side plates because it's wedged against the riser for support...that part I actually planned).
I tested it out today by hauling a week's worth of breakfast/lunch groceries to work...worked like a champ. It even has a side benefit of blocking a good deal of wind; something I hadn't anticipated. I also gave a little room above the stock headlamp in case I ever upgrade to a larger diameter headlight in the future.
If anybody's interested, I've got a few extra sets, but keep in mind that you won't be able to mount a cross tube in the rearmost position (unless you fashion up some sort of bent/offset tube). I'm just going to cut mine off and radius the end on a belt sander. Also, these parts are in the raw; you'd need to polish/chrome/powdercoat them yourself.
-WRM
WRM did all of us on the forum a big favor in funding this experiment!
I myself plan to use this bag setup for multiple reasons:
1. Enables me to keep important or costly stuff where I can see it all the time while riding
2. Reduces the force on me and my spine when riding into a headwind
3. Leaves the rear passenger area clear for a passenger
4. Enables spreading the cargo size and weight between front and rear of the bike, for less impact on handling
For anyone else planning to do this, one caution on using the bag on the forks: Keep the loading in the bag LIGHT WEIGHT. In a real emergency (e.g. swerving to avoid a car or a deer), the extra weight on the steering WILL slow you down in a situation where a lightning fast move is needed.
WRM, Thanks for doing this project. It's a huge plus for the guys and gals on the forum.
And, yes, I just bought one of the plate kits from WRM. Because he paid for the prototype plate construction, he saved me and any other buyer a lot of money over doing it individually from scratch.
OK, here is an update for posts concerning installation of fork extensions beginning with post 5490:
I've put em in and, owing to our somewhat wintery spring up here had a chance to ride the result for roughly 2 hours. Here's a quick pic of my 2014 BO with extensions in:
Note the juffy stand footpad which is necessary along with the fork extensions.
"IF", you've already done LA Dog's Ricor / Racetech front fork mods, installing these is very simple indeed:
INSTALLATION:
1. "Support" bike on Torrins style jack. Slather fork uppers with WD 40. Remove front brake calipers from lower fork and support away from wheel.
2. Loosen upper pinch bolts and fork cap.
3. Loosen lower pinch bolts allowing front wheel to rest on deck.
4. Gently jack bike allowing forks to drop as you go till caps are just over 3" below the top tree.
5. Unscrew fork caps.
6. Place supplied washer on top of existing spacer tube (hold if necessary).
7. Screw steel extension into place using strap wrench "IF" necessary.
8. Drop supplied additional spacer tube into place on top of washer.
9. LIFT FRONT WHEEL BY HAND till upper tube is in position level with top of upper tree. Then nip lower pinch clamps to hold tubes in place. I did this myself with wheel between my knees lifted by one hand and torx/ratchet in the other. It was surprisingly easy but by all means get help if you're so inclined.
10. With extended forks in position, make minor adjustments then snug LOWER pinch clamps securely and torque em to spec.
11. Install fork caps and nip em up securely, (torque to spec IF you're so inclined).
12. Torque upper pinch clamps and reinstall brake calipers.
PLEASE NOTE: IF YOU HAVE NOT ALREADY DONE LA DOG"S SUSPENSION MODS, DON"T FOLLOW MY PROCEDURE. DO A COMPLETE FRONT FORK REMOVAL. THE OEM SPRING PRE-LOAD WILL BE TOO MUCH TO MANAGE WITH FORKS IN SITU.
Now you need to install this on your hardened steel jiffy stand foot:
I removed the stand with the bike still on the jack, of course, then marked the stand hole positions with a punch, then drilled successively bigger holes destroying 4 titanium bits in the process. I have a vice which adjusts (swivels) horizontally and vertically which I found VERY handy for this process.
Anyhow, drill the stand, install the shoe using loctite, then reinstall the stand and you're done.
This short procedural assumes you have a manual which outlines torque values and how your stand is installed etc.
You're done !
HANDLING: Not an issue. There's a barely discernible difference but zero handling issues and your pegs are now nicely raised above the deck. At stop lights your nose is now 1 1/2" higher as you idle beside that Ricer. .
INTEGRITY: What can I say ? You either recognize the quality of the part and its installation as inherently sound or you don't. I do, but thats no help to you. This extension is made of steel, not aluminum as some are, and the internal joint is face on face held securely by threads which match your fork tubes. This is structurally somewhat more akin to a flange type joint than simply 2 pieces of round stock, "pipe", threaded together. The external seam is about 1" below the bottom of the top tree and the joint is firmly held from flexion or unscrewing by being located between the top and bottom tree pinch clamps. Beyond that, time will tell and I'll be a happy Guinea Pig !
I've tried to be thorough but thats no guarantee I've succeeded so please do question anything that seems sketchy to you or which just doesn't make sense. This is a job which is easier to do than to write about .
I got the extensions from Dennis Kirk for $116. Their site says the extensions don't fit your Breakout but, as you can see, they do.
Happy Riding !!
That looks sexy. I got the tall sissy bar as well. Im going to make my breakout a nightmare. I can't wait to show you all. OH!!! Also, for everyone inquiring about cornering with stock suspension, front forks and pegs....
YOU CAN GO SOOO MUCH LOWER. DIP THAT BIKE AND LET THE ROAD GRIND IT AWAY. Lost one of the pegs on the Dragons tail. It was great!
I did the 30/70 pulley upgrade. For those who are riding like me.. when you do this upgrade 120+ mph is a little harder to reach. Take off is exceptional. I burn out in 3rd slamming through gears. Im doing a 6000 mile trip in July and will probably put the stock rear pulley back on. Gas milage is awful now. I feel more power throughout the gears whereas I would hit 120+mph in 4th gear before. Then use the upper two gears to coast there. Save some gas milage..
Feb 13, 2015, 01:41 PM
.
Done
