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Great choice as well. I got a little overwhelmed with all the cam dyno charts and settled on the 475. My buddy just ordered the Woods 22x and I am excited to see/hear that one in person as well.
I was thinking about the 22X as well but tentatively decided on the CR-480 because of the early hitting torque as well as carrying it through the higher RPMs as well. All the charts I have seen seem to show the same nice flat torque curve. I like to spend time on the upper end of the tach occasionally so I think this is the way I want to go.... at least for the moment. Haha.
Originally Posted by OldMike
I'm trying to get a CR-482 right now.
I've seen a couple charts with this cam so far and it seems like a good one as well, but I haven't found any on a 114. CR-482 has me thinking as well. Ahhhh! Too many good choices makes it hard to fully make up my mind with.
Last edited by Bowhunter8607; Apr 13, 2020 at 08:55 PM.
Since the most charts and work I've seen done with the CR 480 has been by Sheffer performance, I asked his opinion on the 480 and 482 for my stock 114. He stated the 482 needs more compression and suggested I go with the 480. Just wanted to share this info as I was unaware that the 482 likes higher compression.
Since the most charts and work I've seen done with the CR 480 has been by Sheffer performance, I asked his opinion on the 480 and 482 for my stock 114. He stated the 482 needs more compression and suggested I go with the 480. Just wanted to share this info as I was unaware that the 482 likes higher compression.
It gets quite a bit louder to my ears without the dB reducer. I didn't like the droning I got and the loss of performance with the dB reducer out so I chopped about 4-ź" off of the dB reducer and put it back in.
It allowed more sound without losing the performance. It's loud enough for me and considerably louder than stock that's for sure. I like the sound especially when ripping on it.
How did you remove the dB reducer? I was able to remove 2 hex-head bolts from the end cap at 5:00 and 7:00 with an Allen wrench but couldnt remove the one at 12:00. What tool removes that one?
How did you remove the dB reducer? I was able to remove 2 hex-head bolts from the end cap at 5:00 and 7:00 with an Allen wrench but couldnt remove the one at 12:00. What tool removes that one?
The same tool that removes the other 2. A regular old hex key. If you have the EPA compliant version of the pipe then I've seen a special tool is needed because they have the tamper proof bolts with a little post that prevents regular allens from being inserted.
The race version with no cat in the muffler has regular hex head bolts that don't require a speical tool. Not sure what version you have but I had no issues removing the bolts to get to the dB reducer.
How did you remove the dB reducer? I was able to remove 2 hex-head bolts from the end cap at 5:00 and 7:00 with an Allen wrench but couldnt remove the one at 12:00. What tool removes that one?
It's a special 7 point security bit, hard to find.
Some have used a regular security bit and modified or hammered it in to remove the screw or check this link for some info. https://www.hdforums.com/forum/2018-...l#post18452311
I made such a bit for my S&S slipons, you can see it in the link that OldMike posted. My slip-ons are CE approved and had 3 of those torxbolts, I replaced mine with normal Torx security bolts.
The same tool that removes the other 2. A regular old hex key. If you have the EPA compliant version of the pipe then I've seen a special tool is needed because they have the tamper proof bolts with a little post that prevents regular allens from being inserted.
The race version with no cat in the muffler has regular hex head bolts that don't require a speical tool. Not sure what version you have but I had no issues removing the bolts to get to the dB reducer.
Like we are telling above, a special torxbit that as far I know you can not buy. I made one myself and afterwords I changed the bolt with regular security tox bolts.
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